A groundswell event on the coast of the British Virgin Islands: spatial variability in morphological impact

Cooper, J. A. G.; Jackson, Derek; Gore, Shannon

doi:10.2112/si65-118.1

Cited by 12 publications

(17 citation statements)

References 14 publications

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“…This is the “Extreme Atlantic Swell Event of March 2008” analyzed by Lefevre [] and Cooper et al . []. Another similar case of “high swell from a remote storm” caused widespread flooding in western Pacific islands [ Hoeke et al ., ] on 10 December 2008.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…It was not associated with a tropical storm but rather to unusual long swell generation by an extratropical storm. This is the "Extreme Atlantic Swell Event of March 2008" analyzed byLefevre [2009] andCooper et al [2013]. Another similar case of "high swell from a remote storm" caused widespread flooding in western Pacific islands[Hoeke et al, 2013] on 10 December 2008.…”

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confidence: 89%

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Infragravity waves across the oceans

Rawat

Ardhuin

Ballu

et al. 2014

Geophysical Research Letters

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Ocean infragravity (IG) waves are low-frequency waves generated along shorelines by incident seas and swell and with heights of the order of 1 cm in the open ocean. Despite these small amplitudes, they can be of much importance for ice shelf break up and errors in measurements of sea level by future satellite altimeters. A combination of numerical model results and in situ data is used to show that bottom pressure signals in the infragravity frequency band can be dominated by bursts of energy that travel across ocean basins, and can last for several days. Two particularly strong events recorded in 2008 are studied, one in the North-Pacific and the other in the North-Atlantic. It is shown that infragravity waves can travel across whole oceans basins with the signal recorded on the western shores often dominated by IG waves coming from the opposite shore of that same ocean basin.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 89%

Infragravity waves across the oceans

Rawat

Ardhuin

Ballu

et al. 2014

Geophysical Research Letters

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“…Swells, from the north to northwest are occasionally generated from storms in the North Atlantic Ocean between December and May (Cooper et al, 2013). Swells, from the north to northwest are occasionally generated from storms in the North Atlantic Ocean between December and May (Cooper et al, 2013).…”

Section: Study Areamentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Observations during large swell events (Cooper et al, 2013) show that these beaches suffer backshore erosion, reduction in gradient and development of nearshore bars during high wave energy. Post-storm recovery involves the transfer of sediment from nearshore bars to the beachface, as in unconstrained temperate beaches (Wright and Short, 1984).…”

Section: Sandy Shorefacesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Spatial variability in beach biogeomorphology in a tropical archipelago

Gore

Cooper

Jackson

et al. 2019

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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Beaches of tropical island coasts exhibit high levels of diversity in composition and form in comparison with their continental counterparts. To investigate the nature and origin of this diversity, individual beach morphology and sedimentology was investigated in the British Virgin Islands (BVI), a Caribbean archipelago of > 60 high volcanic and low reef islands. The islands exhibit a diversity of orientations (some facing the Atlantic and some the Caribbean), elevation and gradient, rock type and wave energy. An examination of 100 beaches in the archipelago revealed a first‐order division into sand (70 beaches) and coral rubble (30 beaches). These beaches occur in seven planform types (determined by the antecedent geological framework) and are further subdivided according to shoreface type (seagrass, sandy shoreface, or reef). Mainland‐attached headland‐embayment beaches are the most common form of sand beach while coral rubble beaches usually occur as barriers that enclose salt ponds and wetlands. Among sand beaches, carbonate content is greatest on Atlantic‐facing beaches, and coral rubble beaches are more common on Caribbean‐facing beaches. Grain size characteristics on sandy beaches are highly variable and range from fine to very coarse sands while coral rubble beaches range up to boulder‐sized clasts. The local source material is a primary determinant of sediment composition. The local factors such as the underlying geology, source and availability of sediments are the primary determinants of beach form, composition and texture in the BVI. Oceanographic and climatic conditions such as the prevailing easterly trade winds and waves which seasonally range in direction from east‐northeast to southeast as well as beach orientation to Atlantic‐ or Caribbean‐facing waves also contribute to the variability, but in a secondary role. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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The basics for a permanent observatory of shoreline evolution in tropical environments; lessons from back-reef beaches in La Reunion Island

Mahabot¹,

Jaud

Pennober³

et al. 2017

Comptes Rendus. Géoscience

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International audienceUnder natural and anthropogenic pressure, the coastal regions are evolving rapidly (population growth, erosion, modification of services, etc.), and some of these changes increase their vulnerability. Monitoring the evolution of the coastal regions has thus become essential to understand how they respond to the various pressures and to define how their resilience could be increased. Among other outcomes, such monitoring should provide continuous, high-resolution data on the spatial and temporal evolution of the coastal areas, especially the shoreline zone. One appropriate way to acquire long, continuous, time series of data is to set up a permanent observatory in the zone to be monitored. This paper aims to provide recommendations and a methodological framework to set up a ‘‘shoreline observatory’’ dedicated to monitor some of the specific features and behaviours of tropical littorals, more particularly back-reef beaches and their geomorphic changes. After a brief review of carbonate sandy beach morphodynamics, we present survey solutions (TLS, UAV photogrammetry) to monitor at high resolution and repeatedly the geomorphic changes of the coastal area, both on land and in shallow water. The example case is that of the back-reef beaches in La Reunion Island

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A groundswell event on the coast of the British Virgin Islands: spatial variability in morphological impact

Cited by 12 publications

References 14 publications

Infragravity waves across the oceans

Infragravity waves across the oceans

Spatial variability in beach biogeomorphology in a tropical archipelago

The basics for a permanent observatory of shoreline evolution in tropical environments; lessons from back-reef beaches in La Reunion Island

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