A Formula for the Calculation of the Longshore Sediment Transport Including Spectral Effects

Barbaro, Giuseppe; Foti, Giandomenico; Sicilia, Luca; Malara, Giovanni

doi:10.2112/jcoastres-d-13-00131.1

Cited by 23 publications

(10 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…In addition, the magnitude of S xy outside the surf zone has been both theoretically and empirically linked to the maximum longshore current velocity (e.g. Guza et al 1986;Feddersen et al 1998), and the importance of the inclusion of directional spreading in alongshore current and sediment transport calculation has been discussed in a number of studies (Ruessink et al 2001;Puleo 2010;Barbaro et al 2014). The present results also indicate that asymmetry in the directional distribution induced by wave refraction has a significant effect on the net radiation stresses.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effect of Asymmetric Directional Spreading on the Total Radiation Stress

O’Dea

Haller

2015

J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng.

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The process of wave refraction in nearshore zones can result in an asymmetric directional distribution of spectral energy when oblique, multi-directional wave fields propagate into shallow water areas. Here the effect of this directional asymmetry on the net wave-induced radiation stresses is analyzed. The net radiation stresses are calculated for a shoaled JONSWAP frequency spectrum with both symmetric and asymmetric directional distributions and then compared with those calculated from the commonly-used monochromatic formulation (appropriate for spectra that are narrow-banded in frequency and directions). Past studies have demonstrated that the use of the monochromatic approximation in radiation stress calculations results in a significant overestimation of the radiation stress components S xx and S xy in broad-banded seas. The present results show that the inclusion of directional asymmetry in radiation stress calculations reduces this overestimation for S xx but increases the overestimation for S xy for a range of dominant wave directions. Thus, directional asymmetry is an additional factor that contributes to overestimation when the monochromatic approximation is used for S xy and can therefore also lead to an overestimation of associated parameters such as alongshore current velocities and alongshore sediment transport rates.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effect of Asymmetric Directional Spreading on the Total Radiation Stress

O’Dea

Haller

2015

J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng.

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“…Regarding the anthropic factors, the most important are the construction of infrastructures, ports and coastal defense works [13][14][15]. Amongst the natural factors, wave action and longshore and river transport are of particular importance [16][17][18][19][20][21][22][23][24][25].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Risk Mapping of Coastal Flooding Areas. Case Studies: Scilla and Monasterace (Italy)

Barbaro¹,

Foti²,

Nucera³

et al. 2020

IJSSE

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Coastal flooding is a danger to people who live near coasts. It is therefore necessary to increase knowledge of the causes of coastal flooding through scientific research. Furthermore, the correct assessment of flooding areas is very important for the management of coastal areas. Given this, the current European legislation (Directive 2007/60/EC) requires flood areas to be mapped, but to date in Italy each region is still adopting different procedures to map their flood areas. This paper, through two case studies, analyzes the hazard, damage and risk mapping of coastal flooding areas. The cases are related to two Calabrian towns, located along the Ionian coast (Monasterace), and the Tyrrhenian coast (Scilla), with both particularly prone to coastal flooding. In particular, with regards to the hazard mapping, the effects of sea storms and climate changes were taken into account. The damage assessment followed an "ex ante" approach, based on the employment of land use maps, in accordance with current Italian legislation. Furthermore, risk maps were added, and obtained by combining both damage and hazard maps. Finally, a comparison with previous events allowed us to verify the validity of the proposed methodology.

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“…Knowledge of coastal dynamics and of the factors that influence it, such as wave climate [3] and longshore [4], [5] and river transport [6], [7], is necessary for proper management and protection of coastal areas [8].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Remote Sensing and Gis to Support Coastal Erosion Risk Analysis in Calabria, Italy

et al. 2020

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In territories such as Calabria, Italy, characterized by about 750 km of coasts, the analysis of the coastal erosion risk is of increasing interest due to the considerable anthropic pressure observed in the last few decades. Index-based methods can be used to assess the risk of coastal erosion. The paper shows an analysis of the coastal erosion risk carried out in Calabria. The analysis was carried out in over 50 sample coastal areas, three of them were chosen as case studies for a detailed analysis. The analysis of the shoreline changes was carried out through the comparison of various cartography data, which consists of historical shorelines taken from the Open Data section of the Calabrian Geoportal, orthophotos taken from the Open Data section of the Italian Geoportal, and satellite imagery provided by Google Earth. The analysis was divided into four phases as follows. The first phase concerned the manual digitization of each missing shoreline, using QGIS for each orthophotos and using the spatial analysis tools of Google Earth Pro for each satellite imagery. The second phase concerned the evaluation of the beach width for each transept. Finally, the last phase concerned the determination of shoreline rates of change using end point rate (EPR) and net shoreline movement (NSM) statistics. Also, an index representative of the trend of erosion or advance of the coast was estimated. Finally, the methodology described in this paper is of particular relevance and interest in the planning and management of coastal areas. It allows us to quickly analyze cartographic data from different sources, using free software. Also, it is of general validity and is useful as a basis for the index-based coastal risk assessment methodology.

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A Formula for the Calculation of the Longshore Sediment Transport Including Spectral Effects

Cited by 23 publications

References 24 publications

Effect of Asymmetric Directional Spreading on the Total Radiation Stress

Effect of Asymmetric Directional Spreading on the Total Radiation Stress

Risk Mapping of Coastal Flooding Areas. Case Studies: Scilla and Monasterace (Italy)

Remote Sensing and Gis to Support Coastal Erosion Risk Analysis in Calabria, Italy

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