A coupled-mode model for the refraction–diffraction of linear waves over steep three-dimensional bathymetry

Belibassakis, Kostas; Athanassoulis, G. A.; Gerostathis, Th. P.

doi:10.1016/s0141-1187(02)00004-4

Cited by 74 publications

(84 citation statements)

References 30 publications

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“…Thus, only a few number of modes (5 or 6) suffice to obtain a convergent solution to j P ðy; zÞ, for bottom slopes of the order of 1:1, or even higher. More details about the above coupled-mode technique can be found in Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [23], and as concerns its application to realistic 3D seabed topographies in Belibassakis et al [24] and in Gerostathis et al [31].…”

Section: Calculation Of the Generalised Incident Wavefieldmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…To overcome the mild-slope assumption, the present method is based on the coupled-mode theory for the propagation of water waves in variable bathymetry regions, developed by Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [23] and extended to 3D by Belibassakis et al [24], in conjunction with a boundary integral representation of the near field in the vicinity of the floating body and an appropriate representation of the far-field flow dynamics in regions with non-constant depth at infinity. Both 2D and 3D problems have been considered.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A boundary element method for the hydrodynamic analysis of floating bodies in variable bathymetry regions

Belibassakis

2008

Engineering Analysis with Boundary Elements

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Section: Calculation Of the Generalised Incident Wavefieldmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A boundary element method for the hydrodynamic analysis of floating bodies in variable bathymetry regions

Belibassakis

2008

Engineering Analysis with Boundary Elements

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“…Magne examined the transformation of swell over a submarine canyon using a model for surface gravity waves over steep three-dimensional topography (Athanassoulis and Belibassakis, 1999;Belibassakis et al, 2001) and observations from the NCEX experiment (Magne et al, in press). The coupled-mode model NTUA5 solves the full linear potential flow problem using an expansion of the velocity potential in propagating and evanescent modes.…”

Section: Rudymentioning

confidence: 99%

Surface Wave Processes on the Continental Shelf and Beach

Herbers¹

2006

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Award Numbers: N0001406WR20190, N0001406WR20329http://www.oc.nps.navy.mil/wavelab/ LONG-TERM GOALSWind waves and swell dominate the hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes on many continental shelves and beaches, affect underwater acoustics, and play an important role in remote sensing applications. Wave prediction in coastal environments is a challenging task because waves are affected by many processes, including scattering by sea floor topography, strong nonlinear interactions, wave breaking, and friction in the bottom boundary layer. Several of these processes are poorly understood and existing wave prediction models rely on parameterizations and empirical validation. The long term goals of this research are to obtain a better understanding of the physical processes that affect ocean surface waves in the coastal environment and develop accurate wave prediction models. OBJECTIVES• Predict accurately the nonlinear shoaling transformation of ocean surface waves on beaches including the excitation of infragravity motions.• Evaluate models for wave dissipation by bottom friction.• Determine the scattering effects of wave-wave and wave-bottom interactions on the evolution of wind-sea and swell spectra on the continental shelf.• Improve the representation of source terms in operational wave prediction models.• Determine the importance of wave reflection and trapping by steep submarine topography. APPROACHWe use a combination of theory, numerical models, and field experiments to investigate the physical processes that affect surface wave properties on the continental shelf and beach. The transformation of wave spectra is predicted with models that include the effects of refraction, scattering by wave-wave and wave-bottom interactions, and parameterizations of bottom friction, and wave breaking. Extensive field data sets were collected in recent ONR experiments off North Carolina (DUCK94, SandyDuck, SHOWEX), California (NCEX), and the Florida Gulf coast (SAX04/Ripples) to test these models in a range of coastal environments. Analysis techniques applied to the measurements include various

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“…For more details about the role and significance of this term we refer to Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999, Sec. 4), Belibassakis et al (2001), where this idea is first introduced and discussed for wave propagation/diffraction problems in variable bathymetry regions.. By using the local-mode series representation (4.1) in the variational principle (3.3), and by following exactly the same procedure as in Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999), the following coupled-mode system (CMS) with respect to the pressure mode amplitudes is obtained: …”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Propagation of water waves through shearing currents in general bathymetry

Belibassakis¹

2006

Maritime Transportation and Exploitation of Ocean and Coastal Resources

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A coupled-mode model is presented for wave-current-seabed interaction, with application to the problem of wave scattering by steady shearing currents in variable bathymetry regions. We consider obliquely incident waves on a horizontally non-homogeneous current in a variable-depth strip, which is characterized by straight and parallel bottom contours. The flow associated with the current is assumed to be parallel to the bottom contours and it is considered to be known. In a finite subregion containing the bottom irregularity, we assume an arbitrary horizontal current structure. Outside this region, the current is assumed to be uniform (or zero). Based on a variational principle, in conjunction with a rapidly-convergent local-mode series expansion of the wave pressure field in a finite subregion containing the current variation and the bottom irregularity, a coupled-mode system is obtained. The present model can be considered as an extension of the works by Smith (1983Smith ( , 1987 and McKee (1987McKee ( ,1996, and it can be further elaborated to treat more general current profiles with vertical structure and cross-jet component, and to include the effects of weak nonlinearity.

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A coupled-mode model for the refraction–diffraction of linear waves over steep three-dimensional bathymetry

Cited by 74 publications

References 30 publications

A boundary element method for the hydrodynamic analysis of floating bodies in variable bathymetry regions

A boundary element method for the hydrodynamic analysis of floating bodies in variable bathymetry regions

Surface Wave Processes on the Continental Shelf and Beach

Propagation of water waves through shearing currents in general bathymetry

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