The way the passenger transport problem has, in the past, been framed in Cape Town and other South African cities, and the nature of the transport modelling exercises that have given rise to large-scale surveys, have resulted in a limited understanding of travel behaviour beyond home-based work tripmaking and morning peak period traffic volumes. Within a new South African transport policy environment however -where the discourse has shifted from 'commuter-based' to 'customer-based' service provision, and from supply-side to demand-side strategies -current understandings of travel needs and behaviour are insufficient. Little is understood of household constraints on travel decisions, of non-work, informal work, off-peak and non-motorised travel needs, as well as of so-called 'equity gaps' in transport supply. Richer, better quality data are required to implement and monitor the new transport policy, and innovative methods will be required to collect and analyse these data.This paper reports on the experiences of a survey aimed at collecting rich data through methods that are, to a large extent, innovative in the South African context. This survey, in the form of an activitybased household travel survey, was conducted in late 2000 and early 2001. The choice of, and some theoretical background to, the survey methodology is discussed. A description of the survey instrument, sample selection, survey administration and data capture and analysis is provided. Methodological lessons from the design and administration of the survey are identified. These centre around the importance of interviewers in successful surveying, interviewer versus self-completion of activity diaries, the impact of computer-assisted interviewing technology on substitution rates, recall periods, and trip recall.