A Climbing Hold With an Integrated Three Dimensional Force Measurement and Wireless Data Acquisition

Lechner, Bernhard; Filzwieser, Ingo; Lieschnegg, Michael; Sammer, Peter

doi:10.21307/ijssis-2017-639

Cited by 5 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 10 publications

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“…Despite the publication of the paper by Draper et al (2011b) studies continue to be published with inconsistencies in the language used to describe the groups in their studies. By way of recent examples, Laffaye et al (2014) categorised their climbers as novice (<6a), skilled (6c-7b) or elite (≥8a) while Lechner et al (2013) classified climbers as experienced or less experienced without stating the grounds upon which the categorisation was made. In 2014 Young et al again used the experienced or inexperienced categorisation, however, in this study they classified each as having ascended more than 50 vertical climbs or fewer than 5 vertical ascents respectively.…”

Section: Ability Groupingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

et al. 2015

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The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past 3 decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2 nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers' characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to a numeric scale suitable for statistical analysis. Our paper presents details of recommended standards of reporting that should be used for reporting climber characteristics and provides a universal scale for the conversion of climbing grades to a number system for statistical analysis.

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Section: Ability Groupingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

et al. 2015

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“…Finally, the use of a single strain gauge to measure a force component does not amplify the signal, reduce the signal disturbing components, or allow sufficient signal resolution to measure small loads such as the low stress exerted by children. The measuring system proposed by Lechner et al 9 is similar to the one by Fuss and Niegl 6,7 and provides sensors which can measure three components of force. The measuring system consisted of three uniaxial load cells integrated in a climbing hold.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Innovative force sensor for indoor climbing holds – real-time measurements and data processing, design and validation

Maffiodo

Sesana

Gabetti

et al. 2020

Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part P:

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In this article, a system to measure the evolution of load in time and space during indoor climbing is described. The system is based on a set of dedicated multiaxial load cells, which measure the load on each hold of an indoor climbing wall. When the climber hangs on a hold, the load signal is read and sent to a digital acquisition and processing system. Sensor design allows for measurement of the force components applied to the climbing holds, regardless of the application point of the force on the hold. Local deformations were measured through strain gauges. Based on the electrical configuration of the strain gauges, the values of the applied forces can be computed, making the contributions to the deformation due to bending moments and torsion negligible. The sensor was designed, assuming a maximum applicable load of 200 kg without plastic deformation. The design process was based on both analytical and finite element method analyses. An experimental calibration and testing campaign was performed to validate the sensor design.

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Interaction forces in climbing: cost-efficient complementation of a 6dof instrumentation

Bauer

Simnacher

Stöcker³

et al. 2014

Sports Technology

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A Climbing Hold With an Integrated Three Dimensional Force Measurement and Wireless Data Acquisition

Cited by 5 publications

References 10 publications

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

Innovative force sensor for indoor climbing holds – real-time measurements and data processing, design and validation

Interaction forces in climbing: cost-efficient complementation of a 6dof instrumentation

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