Differences in Oxygenation Kinetics Between the Dominant and Nondominant Flexor Digitorum Profundus in Rock Climbers

Giles, David; Garrido, Inmaculada; De-la-O, Alejandro; Stone, Keeron; Fryer, Simon M

doi:10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651

Cited by 11 publications

(16 citation statements)

References 11 publications

(19 reference statements)

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“…(1) Both arm's finger flexors were tested together, pilot work identified that the greater amount of weight required for a single arm test increased the resistance of the pulleys used to adjust the load by an unacceptable amount. Given the difference in finger flexor oxygen kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant arms identified previously 4 , future studies should consider the testing of single arms. (2) It was observed that subjects struggled with the perfect execution of the seven-seconds of work.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Rock climbing requires repeated isometric contractions of the finger flexors, which are responsible for flexion of the metacarpophalangeal and interphalangeal joints 1 . These contractions cause regular periods of ischemia in the forearms; the extent of this ischemia and the subsequent recovery from it has been shown to differentiate ability groups of rock climbers 2 , disciplines 3 and is likely to be a trainable characteristic 4 . As such, the fatigue resistance of the finger flexors is considered one of the most important factors in climbing performance.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

Giles¹,

Chidley²,

Taylor³

et al. 2019

International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance

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Purpose: To determine if the mathematical model used for the estimation of critical force (CF) and the energy store component W′ are applicable to intermittent isometric muscle actions of the finger flexors of rock climbers, using a multisession test. As a secondary aim, the agreement of estimates of CF and W′ from a single-session test was also determined. The CF was defined as the slope coefficient, and W′ was the intercept of the linear relationship between total “isometric work” (Wlim) and time to exhaustion (Tlim). Methods: Subjects performed 3 (separated by either 20 min or >24 h) tests to failure using intermittent isometric finger-flexor contractions at 45%, 60%, and 80% of their maximum voluntary contraction. Results: Force plotted against Tlim displayed a hyperbolic relationship; correlation coefficients of the parameter estimates from the work–time CF model were consistently very high (R2 > .94). Climbers’ mean CF was 425.7 (82.8) N (41.0% [6.2%] maximum voluntary contraction) and W′ was 30,882 (11,820) N·s. Good agreement was found between the single-session and multisession protocol for CF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC3,1] = .900; 95% confidence interval, .616–.979), but not for W′ (ICC3,1 = .768; 95% confidence interval, .190–.949). Conclusions: The results demonstrated the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of CF and W′, using equipment readily available in most climbing gyms. Although further work is still necessary, the test of CF described is of value for understanding exercise tolerance and to determine optimal training prescription to monitor improvements in the performance of the finger flexors.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

Giles¹,

Chidley²,

Taylor³

et al. 2019

International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance

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“…NIRS sensors were placed on the forearm flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) muscles, which can be palpated on the anterior side of the forearm one-third between the medial epicondyle of the humerus and the styloid process of the ulna; discussed in point-counterpoint discussion 25,26 and considering the importance and relevance of the NIRS probe placement the clear guidelines by Fryer et al 13 was used. The flexor groups, including the FDP have their primary function in finger flexion for the pre-determined task 27,28 . The sensors were fixed in place using medical adhesive tape (Hypafix; BSN Medical, DE) and were then covered with the compatible commercially available light shield to eliminate possible ambient light intrusion.…”

Section: Finger-hang Testmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Statistical computations were performed using Microsoft Excel for Windows (Version 16.0.4738.1000) and MathWorks Matlab for Windows (Version 9.3.0.713570 R2017b). For the purpose of this paper the dominant hand was used for statistical analysis, as the dominant hand in comparison to non-dominant hand in climbers shows significant variation in regard to oxygenation kinetics 28 . www.nature.com/scientificreports www.nature.com/scientificreports/…”

Section: Statisical Analysesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities

Feldmann

Erlacher

Pfister

et al. 2020

Sci Rep

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The aim of this study was to measure muscle oxygen saturation (SmO 2) dynamics during a climbing specific task until failure in varying conditions. Our prediction was that SmO 2 should be a good marker to predict task failure. Eleven elite level climbers performed a finger-hang test on a 23 mm wooden rung under four different weighted conditions, 1. body weight (BW), 2. body weight +20% (BW +20), 3. body weight −20% (BW −20) and 4. body weight −40% (BW −40), maintaining half crimp grip until voluntary exhaustion. During each trial SmO 2 and time to task failure (TTF) were measured. TTF was then compared to the minimally attainable value of SmO 2 (SmO 2 min) and time to Smo 2 min (TTmin). There is a considerable degree of agreement between attainable SmO 2 min at high intensity conditions (M BW = 21.6% ± 6.4; M BW+20 = 24.0% ± 7.0; M BW−20 = 23.0% ± 7.3). Bland-Altman plot with an a priori set equivalency interval of ±5% indicate that these conditions are statistically not different (M BW-BW + 20 = −2.4%, 95% CI [1.4, −6.2]; M BW−Bw−20 = −1.3, 95% CI [2.5, −5.1]). The fourth and lowest intensity condition (M BW −40 = 32.4% ± 8.8) was statistically different and not equivalent (M BW-BW −40 = −8.8%, 95% CI [−5.0, −12.6]). The same agreement was found between TTF and TTmin for the high intensity conditions plotted via Bland-Altman. While the rate with which oxygen was extracted and utilised changed with the conditions, the attainable SmO 2 min remained constant at high intensity conditions and was related to TTF.

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“…Taking this value as a reference, our study quantified that this corresponds to a finger grip strength deficit percentage equivalent to 41.4%, taking the contralateral limb as a control in force measurement when performing a one finger crimp. However, this must be interpreted cautiously as the possibility of physiological differences in strength between the upper extremities, for instance, depending on hand dominance, could influence its interpretation in terms of being a physiological versus pathological difference, or partly explained by both [28,29].…”

Section: Grip Strength Deficitmentioning

confidence: 99%

Grip Force Measurement as a Complement to High-Resolution Ultrasound in the Diagnosis and Follow-Up of A2 and A4 Finger Pulley Injuries

Iruretagoiena-Urbieta

Zarate

Blasi

et al. 2020

Diagnostics

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The ability of finger flexors to generate force has been studied in relation to climbing performance. However, not much attention has been paid to the decrease in finger grip force in relation to annular pulley injuries. The purpose of the present study was to determine if an injured annular pulley implies a finger flexor force decrease, as well as its relation to clinical and sonographic changes. We performed an observational study in 39 rock climbers with A2 or A4 pulley injuries to the 3rd or 4th fingers. The variables considered were pain upon palpation, ultrasound tendon–bone distance, and finger grip strength decrease. Three rock climbing grip types were considered: the one finger crimp, open crimp, and close crimp. Injured rock climbers presented a decrease in finger grip strength compared to non-injured controls when performing a one finger crimp (p < 0.001). There exists a significant correlation between a tendon–bone distance at the level of the injured pulley and a decreased finger grip strength measured by performing a one finger crimp (p = 0.006). A decrease in finger grip strength could be considered in the diagnostic and follow-up process of A2 and A4 pulley injuries to the 3rd and 4th fingers.

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Differences in Oxygenation Kinetics Between the Dominant and Nondominant Flexor Digitorum Profundus in Rock Climbers

Cited by 11 publications

References 11 publications

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities

Grip Force Measurement as a Complement to High-Resolution Ultrasound in the Diagnosis and Follow-Up of A2 and A4 Finger Pulley Injuries

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