Progress in recent years in the field of stimuli-responsive polymers, whose properties change depending on the intensity of a signal, permitted an increase in smart drug delivery systems (SDDS). SDDS have attracted the attention of the scientific community because they can help meet two current challenges of the pharmaceutical industry: targeted drug delivery and personalized medicine. Controlled release of the active ingredient can be achieved through various stimuli, among which are temperature, pH, redox potential or even enzymes. SDDS, hitherto explored mainly in oncology, are now developed in the fields of dermatology and cosmetics. They are mostly hydrogels or nanosystems, and the most-used stimuli are pH and temperature. This review offers an overview of polymer-based SDDS developed to trigger the release of active ingredients intended to treat skin conditions or pathologies. The methods used to attest to stimuli-responsiveness in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo are discussed.
Objective Cosmetic films and patches are interesting forms to promote skin penetration of active ingredients as they ensure their long stay on the treated zone of the skin. Nevertheless, currently developed films and patches are most of all hydrophilic and are not adapted to the hydrophobic molecules. The aim of this study was to establish whether nanodispersion of fatty acid‐based active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) could be a manner to introduce high concentrations of those ACI in hydrophilic films. Methods Punica granatum seed oil hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) constitute a commercialized lipolytic cosmetic ingredient obtained by enzymatic conjugation of tyrosol to long‐chain fatty acids and to enhance its skin diffusion. Nanodispersions of PHE were prepared by a green emulsion‐solvent evaporation process and dispersed in polyvinyl alcohol films. Raman imaging coupled to multivariate analysis was used to study the distribution of PHE in the films. Results Nanodispersions of PHE combined with antioxidant vitamin E and stabilized by Pluronic® F127 were successfully prepared. The nanodispersions show a spherical shape and a hydrodynamic diameter close to 100 nm. Raman images analysis with multivariate approaches showed a very homogeneous distribution of PHE nanodispersions in the films compared to free PHE introduced as an ethanol solution. Conclusion Nanodispersions of hydrophobic fatty acid‐based ingredients seem to be relevant method to introduce this type of ingredient in hydrophilic film matrix. The co‐suspension with vitamin E limits their degradation in time.
Smart polymeric nanocarriers have been developed to deliver therapeutic agents directly to the intended site of action, with superior efficacy. Herein, a mixture of poly(lactide) (PLA) and redox-responsive poly(ethylene glycol)–block–poly(lactide) (PEG–block–PLA) containing a disulfide bond was synthesized in three steps. The nanoprecipitation method was used to prepare an aqueous suspension of polymeric nanocarriers with a hydrodynamic diameter close to 100 nm. Retinol, an anti-aging agent very common in cosmetics, was loaded into these smart nanocarriers as a model to measure their capacity to encapsulate and to protect a lipophilic active molecule. Retinol was encapsulated with a high efficiency with final loading close to 10% w/w. The stimuli-responsive behavior of these nanocarriers was demonstrated in vitro, in the presence of l-Glutathione, susceptible to break of disulfide bond. The toxicity was low on human keratinocytes in vitro and was mainly related to the active molecule. Those results show that it is not necessary to use 100% of smart copolymer in a nanosystem to obtain a triggered release of their content.
Film-forming systems are highly relevant to the topical administration of active ingredients (AI) to the body. Enhanced contact with the skin can increase the efficacy of delivery and penetration during prolonged exposure. However, after the evaporation of volatile solvents to form a thin film, the distribution of the ingredient should remain homogenous in order to ensure the effectiveness of the formula. This is especially critical for the use of hydrophobic molecules that have poor solubility in hydrophilic films. In order to address this concern, hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) of Punica granatum seed oil were prepared as a nanosuspension stabilised by poloxamers (NanoPHE). NanoPHE was then added to a formulation containing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as a film forming agent, Glycerol as a plasticiser and an antimicrobial agent, SepicideTM HB. Despite their reliability, reference methods such as high-performance liquid chromatography are increasingly challenged due to the need for consumables and solvents, which is contrary to current concerns about green industry in the cosmetics field. Moreover, such methods fail to provide spatially resolved chemical information. In order to investigate the distribution of ingredients in the dried film, Confocal Raman imaging (CRI) coupled to Non-negatively Constrained Least Squares (NCLS) analysis was used. The reconstructed heat maps from a range of films containing systematically varying PHE concentrations highlighted the changes in spectral contribution from each of the ingredients. First, using NCLS scores it was demonstrated that the distributions of PVA, Glycerol, SepicideTM HB and PHE were homogenous, with respective relative standard deviations (RSD) of 3.33%, 2.48%, 2.72% and 6.27%. Second, the respective relationships between ingredient concentrations in the films and their Raman responses, and the spectral abundance were established. Finally, a model for absolute quantification for PHE was be constructed using the percentage of spectral abundance. The prepared %w/w concentrations regressed against predicted %w/w concentrations, displaying high correlation (R2 = 0.995), while the Root Mean Squared Error (0.0869% w/w PHE) confirmed the precision of the analysis. The mean percent relative error of 3.75% indicates the accuracy to which the concentration in dried films could be determined, further supporting the suitability of CRI for analysis of composite solid film matrix. Ultimately, it was demonstrated that nanoformulation of hydrophobic PHE provides homogenous distribution in PVA based film-forming systems independent of the concentration of NanoPHE used in the formula.
Nanocarriers (NCs) were designed from three polymer blends (B1, B2 and B3) and investigated as smart drug delivery systems (SDDS). The blends are composed of a “smart” copolymer, where methoxy poly(ethylene glycol) and poly(lactic acid) are connected via a redox-responsive disulfide bond (mPEG-SS-PLA), and of a “conventional” polymer, poly(lactic acid) (PLA). They differ by mPEG-SS-PLA/PLA ratio and PLA molecular weight. Nanoprecipitation was used to prepare NCs. Three concentrations were tested, and fluorescent dye Nile red (NR) was used as a model payload. The results show that the characteristics of the NCs, such as size and drug release kinetics, are influenced by the type of blend and the concentration used during the nanoprecipitation process. The more redox-responsive blend was B2 (ratio 1:3, PLA 5 kDa) at 16 mg/mL: the quantity of NR released was tripled upon 24 h of incubation in a reducing medium. This study reveals that the amount of disulfide bonds present in a NC is not the only parameter to be considered to design an SDDS. The stability of the SDDS in a presumably non-stimulating environment is also important to limit uncontrolled release during storage or in the body before the biological target is reached.
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