Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of windgenerated "short waves" (typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the shortwave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently sloping beaches, IG waves can dissipate a substantial amount of energy through depth-limited breaking. When the bottom is very rough, such as in coral reef environments, a substantial amount of energy can be dissipated through bottom friction. IG wave energy that is not dissipated is reflected seaward, predominantly for the lowest IG frequencies and on steep bottom slopes. This reflection of the lowest IG frequencies can result in the development of standing (also known as stationary) waves. Reflected IG waves can be refractively trapped so that quasi-periodic along-shore patterns, also referred to as edge waves, can develop. IG waves have a large range of implications in the hydro-sedimentary dynamics of coastal zones. For example, they can modulate current velocities in rip channels and strongly influence cross-shore and longshore mixing. On sandy beaches, IG waves can strongly impact the water table and associated groundwater flows. On gently sloping beaches and especially under storm conditions, IG waves can dominate cross-shore sediment transport, generally promoting offshore transport inside the surfzone. Under storm conditions, IG waves can also induce overwash and eventually promote dune erosion and barrier breaching. In tidal inlets, IG waves can propagate into the back-barrier lagoon during the food phase and induce large modulations of currents and sediment transport. Their effect appears to be smaller during the ebb phase, due to blocking by countercurrents, particularly in shallow systems. On coral and rocky reefs, IG waves can dominate over short-waves and control the hydro-sedimentary dynamics over the reef flat and in the lagoon. In harbors and semi-enclosed basins, free IG waves can be amplified by resonance and induce large seiches (resonant oscillations). Lastly, free IG waves that are generated in the nearshore can cross oceans and they can also explain the development of the Earth's "hum" (background free oscillations of the solid earth).
The morphodynamic functioning of the Sillon de Talbert gravel barrier spit is analysed using a high-frequency survey carried out between September 2012 and December 2019. It is based on beach profile measurements along two transects, modelling offshore wave data (WW3), tide gauge records, and shallow waves and water levels recorded in the intertidal zone. A barrier retreat of À23 to À30 m over the 7-year survey (i.e. À3.3 to À4.3 m yr À1 ) is measured. This retreat is not related to long-term sea level rise (macroscale of 10 2 -10 3 yr), but to mesoscale (10 0 -10 2 yr) morphogenic events combining storm wave and high spring tide. Over 87-90% of the barrier retreat is due to three significant events (1-2 February 2014, 9 February 2016, and 3 January 2018). The storm impact scale model of Orford and Carter is tested. The estimation of the wave runup for the calculation of extreme water levels [i.e. peak overflow elevation (O e ) component] is based on the calibration of an equation performed from in-situ measurements of the swash elevation. The flow depth (O d,q ) overtopping the crest of the barrier (B h ) is thresholded by taking into account the morphological response of the barrier in order to define regimes corresponding to overtopping, discrete overwash, and sluicing overwash. While the Orford and Carter model is generally successful in reproducing the morphodynamic evolution of Sillon de Talbert, the wave energy flux (F) must be considered as an additional parameter in order to improve the fit of the model, so far as it contributes in some cases to change the morphodynamic regime. Thus, the wave energy flux constitutes a key component in the quantification of the water flow across the barrier (O d,q ) corresponding to the hydrodynamic forcing of the model, which becomes (O d,F ).
scite is a Brooklyn-based organization that helps researchers better discover and understand research articles through Smart Citations–citations that display the context of the citation and describe whether the article provides supporting or contrasting evidence. scite is used by students and researchers from around the world and is funded in part by the National Science Foundation and the National Institute on Drug Abuse of the National Institutes of Health.