Alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) are used to enhance stratum corneum desquamation and improve skin appearance. The purpose of this study was to evaluate whether some AHAs improve skin barrier function and prevent skin irritation. Eleven healthy subjects (aged 28 +/- 6 years, mean +/- SD) entered the study. Six test sites of 8 x 5 cm (four different AHAs, vehicle only (VE) and untreated control (UNT) were selected and randomly rotated on the volar arm and forearm. The four different AHAs at 8% concentration in base cream were glycolic acid (GA), lactic acid, tartaric acid (TA) and gluconolactone (GLU). The products were applied twice a day for 4 weeks (2 mg/cm2). At week 4, a 5% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) challenge patch test was performed under occlusion for 6 h (HillTop chamber, 18 mm wide) on each site. Barrier function and skin irritation were evaluated by means of evaporimetry (Servomed EP-1) and chromametry (a* value, Minolta CR200) weekly, and at 0, 24 and 48 h after SLS patch removal. No significant differences in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema were observed between the four AHAs at week 4. After SLS challenge, GLU- and TA-treated sites resulted in significantly lower TEWL compared with VE, UNT (P < 0.01) and GA (P < 0.05) both at 24 and 48 h. Similarly, a* values were significantly reduced after irritation in GLU- and TA-treated sites. This study shows that AHAs can modulate stratum corneum barrier function and prevent skin irritation; the effect is not equal for all AHAs, being more marked for the molecules characterized by antioxidant properties.

Purpose of the Study: We aimed to evaluate whether prolonged occlusion can induce stratum corneum barrier damage, alterations in stratum corneum hydration or water-holding capacity (WHC) lasting longer than the occlusion time. Materials and Methods: 12 subjects were occluded on the forearm for 24, 48, 72 and 96 h. Two hours after occlusion removal, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin hydration were measured and a sorption-desorption test performed. Results: TEWL showed an increase reaching a plateau on day 2. Hydration and WHC did not show significant changes. Hygroscopicity showed the highest level on day 1, decreasing during the following days. A highly significant correlation between capacitance values and the WHC could be detected (p < 0.0001, r = 0.8206). No correlation could be detected between hygroscopicity and TEWL. Conclusions: Prolonged occlusion induces barrier damage without skin dryness. Occlusion also induces an increased hygroscopicity. A correlation between these two findings could not be proven.

Surfactant-induced irritant reactions may be elicited by several endogenous and exogenous factors. Among these, surfactant concentration, and duration and frequency of exposure play important rôles. The study focuses on the influence of water temperature in determining damage of the skin barrier. 10 subjects of both sexes entered the study. 4 areas (4 x 4 cm2) were randomly selected on the volar forearm and were treated with a daily open application of 5% sodium lauryl sulphate for 4 days. The solutions were at 3 temperatures: 4 degrees, 20 degrees and 40 degrees C. One site served as untreated control. On the 5th day, skin irritation was evaluated using transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements, erythema (a* value), skin reflectance (L* value), hydration (capacitance) and desquamation (stripping). The results show a significant effect of the solution's temperature in determining skin irritation (P < 0.001). Skin damage was higher in sites treated with warmer temperatures and a highly significant correlation (P < 0.001) between irritation and temperature was found. In conclusion, the study shows that water temperature during washing has an important effect on the onset of irritant contact dermatitis.