Cosmetic surfactant performs detergency, wetting, emulsifying, solubilizing, dispersing and foaming effects. Adverse reactions of chemical synthesis surfactant have an effect on environment and humans, particularly severe in long term. Biodegradability, low toxicity and ecological acceptability which are the benefits of naturally derived surfactant that promises cosmetic safety are, therefore, highly on demand. Biosurfactant producible from microorganisms exhibiting potential surface properties suitable for cosmetic applications especially incorporate with their biological activities. Sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mannosylerythritol lipids are the most widely used glycolipids biosurfactant in cosmetics. Literatures and patents relevant to these three glycolipids reviewed were emphasizing on the cosmetic applications including personal care products presenting the cosmetic efficiency, efficacy and economy benefits of glycolipids biosurfactant.

SynopsisAcne vulgaris suppresses an individual's self-confidence by causing distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne. The topical application of therapeutic agents has been found to be more feasible than hormonal treatment and laser therapy. The ingredients in topical acne treatments, particularly herbs and naturally derived compounds, have received considerable interest as they have fewer adverse effects than synthetic agents. Ré suméL'acné vulgaire touche à l'assurance d'un individu en causant une détresse face à son apparence physique. Elle affecte un nombre important d'individus pendant la puberté et est associée à l'adolescence. Plusieurs traitements ont été proposés pour diminuer les problèmes esthétiques et psychologiques causés par l'acné. L'application topique d'agents thérapeutiques a été estimée plus aisée qu'un traitement hormonal et une thérapie laser. Les ingrédients des traitements topiques de l'acné, particulièrement les plantes et les composés naturels dérivés ont suscité un intérêt considérable par leurs moindres effets indésirables que les ingrédients synthé-tiques.

SynopsisBody malodour, including foot odour, suppresses social interaction by diminishing self-confidence and accelerating damage to the wearer's clothes and shoes. Most treatment agents, including aluminium anti-perspirant salts, inhibit the growth of malodourous bacteria. These metallic salts also reduce sweat by blocking the excretory ducts of sweat glands, minimizing the water source that supports bacterial growth. However, there are some drawback effects that limit the use of aluminium anti-perspirant salts. In addition, over-the-counter anti-perspirant and deodourant products may not be sufficiently effective for heavy sweaters, and strong malodour producers. Body odour treatment agents are rarely mentioned in the literature compared with other cosmetic ingredients. This review briefly summarizes the relationship among sweat, skin bacteria, and body odour; describes how odourous acids, thiols, and steroids are formed; and discusses the active ingredients, including metallic salts and herbs, that are used to treat body odour. A new class of ingredients that function by regulating the release of malodourants will also be described. These ingredients do not alter the balance of the skin flora. Ré suméLes mauvaises odeurs corporelles, y compris celles des pieds, atté-nue l'interaction sociale en diminuant la confiance en soi et favorisant des dommages aux vêtements et aux chaussures portés. La plupart des agents inclus dans les traitements, y compris les sels d'aluminium antiperspirants, inhibent la croissance de bactéries malodorantes. Ces sels métalliques réduisent aussi la sueur en bloquant les canaux excréteurs des glandes sudoripares, réduisant ainsi au minimum l'eau, source de la croissance bactérienne. Cependant, il y a quelques inconvénients qui limitent l'utilisation de sels d'aluminium anti-transpirants. De plus, les produits antiperspirants et déodorants OTC peuvent ne pas être suffisamment efficaces pour des personnes produisant une grande quantité de sueur et producteurs de fortes odeurs. Les agents actifs sur les Odeurs corporelles sont rarement mentionnés dans la littérature comparativement à d'autres Ingrédients cosmétiques. Cette revue récapitule brièvement la relation entre la Sueur, les bactéries cutanées et l'odeur corporelle; elle décrit comment des acides odorants, des thiols, et des stéroïdes sont formés; et examine les principes actifs, y compris les sels métalliques et les végétaux utilisés pour traiter l'odeur corporelle. Une nouvelle classe d'ingrédients dont la fonction est de réguler la libération de mauvaises odeurs est également décrite. Ces ingrédients ne modifient pas l'équilibre de la flore cutanée.

or androgenetic alopecia directly distresses self-confidence affecting the individual's quality of life. Hair loss is therefore a significant psychosocial manifestation that worth much expense on treatment. Androgenetic alopecia is noticed as a slow transformation of large scalp terminal hair follicles to shorter, thinner, and less deep vellus hair with a much shorter anagen. Although minoxidil, finasteride, and dutasteride including other synthetic therapeutic agents are mostly used for alopecia treatment, their adverse effects encourage sorting of alternative efficient treatment agent with a limited side effect particularly herbs. Thus, this review briefly summarized causes of hair loss and emphasized on active ingredients for treatment in particular currently used herbs and the potential candidates. Treatment choices will be further wider and conclusively select herbs that fitting the consumers' preference.

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Lipopeptides are biosurfactants extensively used in cosmetics. The consumption of cosmetics containing lipopeptides is increasing as a result of the exceptional surface properties and diverse biological activities of lipopeptides which facilitate a vast number of applications not only in the pharmaceutics industry which includes cosmetics but also in the food industry. Cosmetics containing lipopeptides are available in various dosage forms according to their beneficial surface properties, which include anti-wrinkle and moisturizing activities and cleansing cosmetics. The microbial production of lipopeptides particularly those with biological and surface activities applicable to cosmetics are summarized based on appropriate studies and patents up to the year 2008 to manage the information and sufficiently review the data.

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Hyperpigmentation of skin is caused by several factors. UV exposure, in addition to oxidative stress, elevates inflammatory mediators stimulating melanogenesis. Herbal-derived compounds for improving skin lightness are gaining interest as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than fully synthetic products. This review briefly addresses the causes of skin hyperpigmentation and extensively summarizes the status of herbs currently used in skin-lightening cosmetics. The properties of active compounds and their dose rate information are summarized where available, along with human or animal relevant models for activity testing. This review will be of value to cosmetic formulators and dermatologists who are searching for naturally derived ingredients for improving skin lightness, in line with consumer preference and expectations.