Shoreline evolution model from a dynamic equilibrium beach profile

Sánchez, Jara Martínez; González, M.; Medina, Raúl

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.02.006

Cited by 28 publications

(20 citation statements)

References 17 publications

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“…It appears that is not correlated with change in Gourlay number in Figure 6-10, suggesting that this parameter is not particularly sensitive for this dataset. This is in agreement with Jara et al (2015)'s suggestion that…”

Section: Narrabeen Beach Analysissupporting

confidence: 82%

“…-When the equilibrium shoreline model from Yates et al (2009) was analysed further in order to compare to the form of the − model, it was found that the rate of change of shoreline behaves similarly to the cross-shore bulk transport, suggesting that these beach states can be modelled in similar ways, with some function of H as a model driver; and -It was found that does not appear to be a function of E for both the UQ experiments and the data from Torrey Pines in Yates et al (2009) and perhaps the use of E 1/2 in equilibrium shoreline models is not appropriate, as suggested by Jara et al (2015).…”

Section: Conclusion and Loose Ends 71 Conclusionmentioning

confidence: 97%

“…The E eq line is shown on the figure as a dashed line. suggests that should not be a function of some power of E, as the model by Jara et al (2015) claimed (outlined in Section 2.3.1.3). If was a function of some power of E, the points should be darkening in colour as E increases.…”

Section: Rearrangement Of Model From Yates Et Al (2009)mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…the E 1/2 term in Eq. (2.26)) has been criticised as being arbitrary and having no physical basis for its inclusion (Jara et al, 2015);…”

Section: Conclusion and Loose Ends 71 Conclusionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Beach recovery and studies in accretive sediment transport

Shimamoto¹

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Erosion has been a focal point in sediment transport research while sediment accretion has been neglected until recent times. This thesis addresses some components of accretive sediment transport through modelling and new experimental measurements.The existing Grab and Dump model (Nielsen, 1988), a simple sediment transport model over rippled beds, is generalised to reflect a wider range of flow conditions, including acceleration skewed flows, boundary layer streaming, sheet flows, and cases with superimposed current. The revised model is compared to another semi-empirical sediment transport model and is found to have similar predictive abilities for small scale laboratory data. The results show that there are limitations to the model and more work is required to accommodate flows with no acceleration skewness and under the sheet flow regime.The local approximation method for non-linear irregular waves (Nielsen, 1989) is updated for converting surface elevation data into velocity, as many sediment transport models require velocity time series as input while surface elevation data are more readily measured and available. Data from three experiments are used to investigate this method, which was previously used to convert pressure measurements to surface elevation. The results are compared to the spectral transfer method, and found to perform similarly in most locations apart from near the breakpoint, where it performs better due to an additional multiplier which accounts for the increasingly negative timemean velocities closer to shore.New beach profile experiments were undertaken with an emphasis on the beach profile at equilibrium under random waves. The beach profiles were subjected to waves of various heights, with each case run until the profile appeared to be at equilibrium, for both accretive and erosive conditions. It was observed that the profile under accretive conditions behaves in a cyclic manner, where the outer bar is destroyed and recreated from the inner bar moving offshore, a process which also has a much longer time scale compared to the profile evolution under erosive conditions. The experimental profile measurements are used to evaluate an equilibrium type total sediment transport model utilising the relationship between the dimensionless fall velocity parameter and cross-shore bulk sediment transport proposed by Baldock et al. (2011). The model is applied to both laboratory and field measurements, and compared to an existing equilibrium shoreline model. The model is found to perform well under laboratory conditions where the profiles reach equilibrium but faces limitations with field measurements, which is an area for future work.ii Declaration by author Contributions by others to the thesisNo contribution by others. Statement of parts of the thesis submitted to qualify for the award of another degreeNone.iv

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Section: Narrabeen Beach Analysissupporting

confidence: 82%

Section: Conclusion and Loose Ends 71 Conclusionmentioning

confidence: 97%

Section: Rearrangement Of Model From Yates Et Al (2009)mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…the E 1/2 term in Eq. (2.26)) has been criticised as being arbitrary and having no physical basis for its inclusion (Jara et al, 2015);…”

Section: Conclusion and Loose Ends 71 Conclusionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Beach recovery and studies in accretive sediment transport

Shimamoto¹

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“…Cross-shore migrations of the shoreline and nearshore sandbar reflect transitions toward more dissipative or more reflective states depending on the incident wave conditions [van Maanen et al, 2008;Ojeda and Guillén, 2008;van de Lageweg et al, 2013]. Recently, semiempirical models, based on a limited number of key primary processes, have been developed to explain and forecast the migration of the shoreline [Yates et al, 2009;Davidson et al, 2010Davidson et al, , 2013Splinter et al, 2014;Jara et al, 2015] and the nearshore sandbar [Plant et al, 1999[Plant et al, , 2006Splinter et al, 2011;Blossier et al, 2016]. In essence, this type of migration models defines a time-varying equilibrium location of the shoreline (or barline) and a migration intensity that depends on the incoming wave energy.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Shore and bar cross‐shore migration, rotation, and breathing processes at an embayed beach

2017

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A principal component analysis (PCA) is used to decompose data on the coupled morphodynamics of the shoreline and nearshore sandbar of a typical single‐barred embayed beach (Tairua Beach, New Zealand). Dynamic patterns are classified into simultaneous modes, where the bar and shoreline move at the same time, and nonsimultaneous modes, where the shore moves independently from the bar, and vice versa. Two simultaneous modes accounting for 65% of the variance of the shoreline and barline dominate the system. One mode describes inverse shoreline and sandbar cross‐shore migrations (alongshore averaged), occurring with simultaneous rotations in the same direction. The other mode accounts for migration in the same direction accompanied by variations of the barline curvature (similar to “breathing modes” previously described in embayed beach shoreline modeling studies). Two nonsimultaneous modes of lesser importance account separately for independent shoreline and barline rotations (10 to 15% of the variance explained). A PCA applied to the shore and sandbar behaviors modeled by four standard equilibrium models simulating shore and sandbar cross‐shore migrations and rotations show that these are interrelated because of a correlation between wave energy and direction. Shore and bar rotations are coupled partially because the shape of the bay induces a correlation of their respective drivers, the wave angle of incidence and the alongshore gradient of wave energy. However, this correlation depends on the wave energy. This, in combination with different shore and sandbar response times (quantified using the models), also explains the independent rotations reflected by the nonsimultaneous modes.

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A fuzzy model integrating shoreline changes, NDVI and settlement influences for coastal zone human impact classification

et al. 2019

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R. M. Goncalves acknowledges the financial support of project Universal/CNPq14/2012 number: 482224/2012-6; the Coastal Cartographic Laboratory (LACCOST) at Federal University of Pernambuco (Brazil); the Department of Cartographic Engineering (UFPE); the Department of Spatial Sciences (Curtin University), also the support of Post-Doctoral CNPq scholarship (233170/2013-8) that supports his stay at Curtin University, Australia and the support of CNPq Grant 310412/2015-3/PQ and also 310452/2018-0 level 2. R.M. Goncalves and J.L. Awange are also grateful for the Brazilian Science without Borders Program/CAPES Grant 88881.068057/2014-01, which supported J.L. Awange's stay at the UFPE, Brazil. In addition, J.L. Awange would like to thank the financial support of the Alexander von Humboldt Foundation that supported his time at Karlsruhe Institute

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Shoreline evolution model from a dynamic equilibrium beach profile

Cited by 28 publications

References 17 publications

Beach recovery and studies in accretive sediment transport

Beach recovery and studies in accretive sediment transport

Shore and bar cross‐shore migration, rotation, and breathing processes at an embayed beach

A fuzzy model integrating shoreline changes, NDVI and settlement influences for coastal zone human impact classification

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