Observations and model simulations of wave‐current interaction on the inner shelf

Hopkins, Julia; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt

doi:10.1002/2015jc010788

Cited by 33 publications

(26 citation statements)

References 43 publications

(91 reference statements)

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“…Similar to previous studies at this location [Hopkins et al, 2015], for the no-wind cases and relatively short evolution distances here, wind and nonlinear interactions were not included.…”

Section: Numerical Simulationssupporting

confidence: 52%

“…The divergence (convergence) of the transport vectors was used as a proxy for erosion (deposition), and the morphology was not updated during the model run. These proxies primarily are a function of the simulated hydrodynamics, which have been verified with field observations at this [Hopkins et al, 2015] and other shallow-water locations. When initialized with frequency-directional spectra from WaveWatchIII [Tolman, 2002] …”

Section: Numerical Simulationsmentioning

confidence: 78%

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Field observations and numerical model simulations of a migrating inlet system

Hopkins¹

2017

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Waves, currents, and bathymetric change observed along 11 km of the southern shoreline of Martha's Vineyard include storm events, strong tidal flows (> 2 m/s), and an inlet migrating 2.5 km in ~7 years. A field-verified Delft3D numerical model developed for this system is used to examine the hydrodynamics in the nearshore and their effect on the migrating inlet. An initial numerical experiment showed that the observed 70⁰ tidal modulation of wave direction in the nearshore was owing to interactions with tidal currents, and not to depth-induced refraction as waves propagated over complex shallow bathymetry. A second set of simulations focused on the separation of tidal currents from the southeast corner of Martha's Vineyard, showing the positive correlation between flow separation and sediment transport around a curved shoreline. Observations of waves, currents, and bathymetric change during hurricanes were reproduced in a third numerical experiment examining the competition between storm waves, which enhance inlet migration, and strong tidal currents, which scour the inlet and reduce migration rates. The combined field observations and simulations examined here demonstrate the importance of wave and tidal current forcings on morphological evolution at timescales of days to months.

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“…Similar to previous studies at this location [Hopkins et al, 2015], for the no-wind cases and relatively short evolution distances here, wind and nonlinear interactions were not included.…”

Section: Numerical Simulationssupporting

confidence: 52%

Section: Numerical Simulationsmentioning

confidence: 78%

Field observations and numerical model simulations of a migrating inlet system

Hopkins¹

2017

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“…The wave model solves the spectral action balance and includes 53 the effects of shoaling, refraction, and wave-current interaction. Similar to previous studies at 54 this location [27], for the no-wind cases and relatively short evolution distances here, wind and 55 nonlinear interactions were not included. The circulation model includes the effects of waves on 56 currents through wave radiation-stress gradients, combined wave and current bed shear stress, [27].…”

supporting

confidence: 55%

Flow separation effects on shoreline sediment transport

Hopkins

Elgar

Raubenheimer

2017

Coastal Engineering

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Field-tested numerical model simulations are used to estimate the effects of an inlet, ebb shoal, wave height, wave direction, and shoreline geometry on the variability of bathymetric change on a curved coast with a migrating inlet and strong nearshore currents. The model uses bathymetry shoreline depends more strongly on its radius of curvature (a proxy for the separation of tidal flows from the coast) than on the presence of the inlet, the ebb shoal, or wave height and direction. As the radius of curvature decreases (as the corner sharpens), tidal asymmetry of nearshore currents is enhanced, leading to more sediment transport near the shoreline over several tidal cycles. The results suggest that feedbacks between shoreline geometry and innershelf flows can be important to coastal erosion and accretion in the vicinity of an inlet.3

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“…Between 2011 and 2015, tidal currents observed in Katama Inlet were as high as 2 m/s (Orescanin et al, 2016) and tidal currents flowing through Muskeget Channel separating Vineyard Sound from the Atlantic (Figure 1) were as high as 3 m/s (Hopkins et al, 2017). Observations at this site were used in prior studies to calibrate and validate the numerical model Delft3D (Lesser et al, 2004) for waves and currents (Hopkins et al, 2016(Hopkins et al, , 2017. Here rapid morphological evolution and associated waves and currents observed at Katama are used to calibrate Delft3D for sediment transport.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The field observations are used to calibrate a numerical model that simulates nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphological change along the southern shoreline of Martha's Vineyard, MA ( Figure 1; Hopkins et al, 2016Hopkins et al, , 2017. Norton Point, the sand barrier separating Katama Bay from the Atlantic Ocean, breached during a nor'easter storm in April 2007 to form Katama Inlet (Figure 1).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Storm Impact on Morphological Evolution of a Sandy Inlet

2018

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Observations of waves, currents, and bathymetric change in shallow water (<10‐m depth) both inside and offshore of a migrating inlet with strong (2–3 m/s) tidal currents and complex nearshore bathymetry show over 2.5 m of erosion and accretion resulting from each of two hurricanes (offshore wave heights >8 m). A numerical model (Delft3D, 2DH mode) simulating waves, currents, and morphological change reproduces the observations with the inclusion of hurricane force winds and sediment transport parameters adjusted based on model‐data comparisons. For simulations of short hurricanes and longer nor'easters with identical offshore total time‐integrated wave energy, but different peak wave energies and storm durations, morphological change is correlated (R2 = 0.60) with storm intensity (total energy of the storm divided by the duration of the storm). Similarly, the erosion observed at the Sand Engine in the Netherlands is correlated with storm intensity. The observations and simulations suggest that the temporal distribution of energy in a storm event, as well as the total energy, impacts subsequent nearshore morphological change. Increased storm intensity enhances sediment transport in bathymetrically complex, mixed wave‐and‐tidal‐current energy environments, as well as at other wave‐dominated sandy beaches.

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Observations and model simulations of wave‐current interaction on the inner shelf

Cited by 33 publications

References 43 publications

Field observations and numerical model simulations of a migrating inlet system

Field observations and numerical model simulations of a migrating inlet system

Flow separation effects on shoreline sediment transport

Storm Impact on Morphological Evolution of a Sandy Inlet

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