Natural surfactants used in cosmetics: glycolipids

Abstract

Cosmetic surfactant performs detergency, wetting, emulsifying, solubilizing, dispersing and foaming effects. Adverse reactions of chemical synthesis surfactant have an effect on environment and humans, particularly severe in long term. Biodegradability, low toxicity and ecological acceptability which are the benefits of naturally derived surfactant that promises cosmetic safety are, therefore, highly on demand. Biosurfactant producible from microorganisms exhibiting potential surface properties suitable for cosmetic applications especially incorporate with their biological activities. Sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mannosylerythritol lipids are the most widely used glycolipids biosurfactant in cosmetics. Literatures and patents relevant to these three glycolipids reviewed were emphasizing on the cosmetic applications including personal care products presenting the cosmetic efficiency, efficacy and economy benefits of glycolipids biosurfactant.

An Overview of Novel Surfactants for Formulation of Cosmetics with Certain Emphasis on Acidic Active Substances

“…This is not only because of their aforementioned advantages and interesting properties (i. e. physicochemical properties, biological activity,b iocompatibility and biodegradability), but also due to their high productivity from renewable resources [27 -36]. Among the biosurfactants, glycolipids may be more frequently found in the composition of cosmetics and personal care products, serving as multifunctional ingredients in their formulations [37]. Structurally,t hey are long-chain aliphatic acids or hydroxyaliphatic acids in combination with acarbohydrate moiety.…”

“…Based on the nature of the carbohydrate moiety,g lycolipids can be sub-divided into rhamnose lipids, trehalose lipids, sophorose lipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, lipomannosyl-mannitols, lipomannans and lipoarabinomannanes, diglycosyl diglycerides, monoacylglycerol and galactosyl-diglyceride [27]. Withint his group, rhamnose lipids, sophorose lipids, and mannosylerythritol lipids are the most investigated surfactants, and are envisioned for prospective application in the production of cosmetics [37].…”

“…They have various functions and may serve as emulsifiers, wetting and foaming agents, solubilizers, detergents, irrespective of their biological activity [18]. Hence, they are used as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients which have good skin compatibility and their application is mainly presented trough an umber of patents [37]. Due to their bactericidal activity,t hey may be found in cosmetics intended for acne, dandruff and body odours treatment [41].…”

“…Due to their bactericidal activity,t hey may be found in cosmetics intended for acne, dandruff and body odours treatment [41]. Sophorolipids have shown additional activities which make them interesting as possible active cosmetic ingredients such as: (i) desquamating and depigmenting agents, due to the removal of stratum corneum surface layers, (i) agents for cellulite treatment since they stimulate leptin synthesis in adipocytes, and (iii) anti-age actives as both stimulators of fibroblast metabolism and collagen neosynthesis and inhibitors of free radicals [37]. They are also used in decorative cosmetics: pencil-shaped lip rouge, lip cream, eye shadow and compressed powder [41].…”

The Definition, Preparation and Application of Rhamnolipids as Biosurfactants

“…Surfactants in cosmetics applications are required to have a shelf life of more than 3 years, and saturated Acyl groups are preferred over unsaturated compounds. Kanebo Cosmetics Global Corporation (Tokyo) recently unveiled rhamnolipids biosurfactants-based products, and new research has pointed to rhamnolipids as the only biocompatible and ideal biosurfactants for use in cosmetics [79].…”