Morphodynamic response of a two-barred beach to a shoreface nourishment

Ojeda, Elena; Ruessink, Gerben; Guillén, Jorge

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.05.006

Cited by 66 publications

(57 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…From 2004, the nourishment was no longer discernible as a clear breakerline, suggesting that it had flattened out. Bathymetric surveys confirm this (Ojeda et al, 2008). The nourishment stopped the net offshore migration of the inner and outer subtidal sandbars, a sandbar response also seen at other nourished locations (e.g., Van Duin et al, 2004;Grunnet and Ruessink, 2005).…”

Section: Uniform Behaviorsupporting

confidence: 53%

“…It is possible that the subsequent inert behaviour of the inner bar and low-tide water line is caused by the sand brought into the nearshore system by the shoreface nourishments. Because the sandbars at Noordwijk are, relative to other sites along the Dutch coast, rather small in volume, all this sand has, in a manner of speaking, made the nearshore rather inert, see Ojeda et al (2008) for further discussion. It is very well possible that beach nourishments unprotected by sandbars and/or shoreface nourishments are much more dynamic.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Nonetheless, they hold great promise for the future. Ideally, one could combine daily to weekly video-based estimates of bathymetry with a waves-currents-sand transport-coastal evolution model to set up an operational Ojeda et al (2008). prediction model for coastal evolution.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Examples of such variability include sandbar switches (e.g., Ojeda et al, 2008) and shoreward propagating accretionary waves (e.g., Wijnberg and Holman, 2007).…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

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Nearshore evolution at Noordwijk (NL) in response to nourishments, as inferred from Argus video imagery

Ruessink

Grinten

Vonhögen-Peeters

et al. 2012

NCK-days 2012 : Crossing Borders in Coastal Research : Jubilee Conference Proceedings

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We use an approximately 16-year long data set of daily low-tide video images to examine the effect of three consecutive nourishments on the temporal evolution of the subtidal sandbars and the low-tide water line at Noordwijk, The Netherlands. The data set starts in 1995, with shoreface nourishments implemented in 1998 and in 2006, and a "Zwakke Schakel" beach nourishment in 2007/2008. We find that, consistent with observations elsewhere, the shoreface nourishments halted the interannual, net-seaward migration of the two sandbars. Also, the first nourishment resulted in large-scale sandbar variability known as bar switching. The beach nourishment had no effect on the sandbars, other than an immediate 50-m seaward shift of the low-tide waterline and the inner sandbar. Neither the shoreface nor the beach nourishments were found to result in an increase or decrease in the number and cross-shore extent of rip channels. On the whole, the successive nourishments have reduced the natural dynamics of the Noordwijk coastal system.

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Section: Uniform Behaviorsupporting

confidence: 53%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Examples of such variability include sandbar switches (e.g., Ojeda et al, 2008) and shoreward propagating accretionary waves (e.g., Wijnberg and Holman, 2007).…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

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Nearshore evolution at Noordwijk (NL) in response to nourishments, as inferred from Argus video imagery

Ruessink

Grinten

Vonhögen-Peeters

et al. 2012

NCK-days 2012 : Crossing Borders in Coastal Research : Jubilee Conference Proceedings

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

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“…This methodology, giving rise to the signal reported in Fig. 6e is described in the extensive literature on coastal video monitoring (Takewaka and Nakamura, 2001;Ojeda et al, 2008;Zhang and Zhang, 2008 …”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave run-up prediction and observation in a micro-tidal beach

Luccio¹,

Benassai²,

Budillon³

et al. 2017

Preprint

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Abstract. Extreme weather events have significant impacts on coastal human activities and related economy. In this scenario the forecast of sea storms and wave run-up events is a challenging goal to mitigate the wave effects on shores, piers and coastal structures. To do this, we used a computational model chain based on both community and ad hoc developed numerical models in an operational context to evaluate the beach inundation levels. At this aim, we compared the results of simulated and observed wave run-up levels on a micro-tidal beach located on the northern Tyrrhenian Sea. The offshore wave simulations Modelling (CCMMMA) -University of Naples Parthenope, which were used as initial conditions for run-up calculations using different formulas. The validation of the simulated waves was done with different observation systems. The offshore wave simulations were matched with remote sensing data, while the run-up levels calculated with different formulas were compared with observations taken from a video camera system. The usual statistical errors were taken as a measurement of the modelling 10 system capability to properly simulate the beach run-up during a storm.

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New insights into embayed beach rotation: The importance of wave exposure and cross‐shore processes

2015

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Although embayed beach rotation has been viewed and modeled as an alongshore sediment transport process acting on a uniform beach profile, recent research suggests a more complex response whereby alongshore variability in cross-shore sediment fluxes may be more significant. This study utilizes 5 years of fully three-dimensional beach surveys at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach (SE Australia) to quantify the control of alongshore nonuniform wave exposure and cross-shore processes on embayed beach rotation. Empirical orthogonal function analysis of the alongshore variability in subaerial beach volume/width and berm slope confirms that the dominant mode of subaerial beach variability is an onshore/offshore sediment exchange that is strongly controlled (R > 0.8) by the alongshore gradient in breaker wave height and coincides with a uniform flattening/steepening of the berm slope. A secondary rotation-like signal is observed in both the subaerial beach volume/width data and, significantly, the berm slope. This inverse flattening/steepening of the berm slope between beach extremities is most likely a proxy for differing cross-shore processes within the surf zone between the exposed and sheltered ends of the embayment, particularly with regards to dissipation of storm wave energy by offshore sandbars and beach recovery following storms. Analysis of the corresponding wave data reveals two distinct time scales of wave forcing characteristic of short-term erosion and longer-term recovery processes. A new conceptual model is presented of three differing modes of embayed beach rotation, with the newly identified beach rotation mode controlled by offshore sandbars considered of particular importance at embayments where headland sheltering of oblique waves is pronounced.

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Morphodynamic response of a two-barred beach to a shoreface nourishment

Cited by 66 publications

References 24 publications

Nearshore evolution at Noordwijk (NL) in response to nourishments, as inferred from Argus video imagery

Nearshore evolution at Noordwijk (NL) in response to nourishments, as inferred from Argus video imagery

Wave run-up prediction and observation in a micro-tidal beach

New insights into embayed beach rotation: The importance of wave exposure and cross‐shore processes

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