MONARCHY, UNIFORM AND THE RISE OF THE <i>FRAC</i> 1760–1830

Mansel, Philip

doi:10.1093/past/96.1.103

Cited by 19 publications

(3 citation statements)

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“…As highlighted by Alison Matthews David (2003: 5–7), and using the examples of the French Second Empire’s officers, ‘Though the uniform is the most vivid example, color persisted in other forms of nineteenth-century male dress, not simply in the bright silk waistcoat and tie, but in the saturated hues of the orientalist silk bathrobe and hunting pinks.’ Up to World War I, ‘the identity of nineteenth-century military men’ was strongly linked to the use of bright colours, and the French style in military garment was highly influential worldwide, until their defeat in the Franco-Prussian war (Matthews David, 2003: 31). Moreover, the uniform became a dominant trait of European courts in the early 19th century, which reflected ‘the increasing militarization of the courts and monarchies in Europe’ and the felt necessity by European elites to identify with the army (Mansel, 1982: 123).…”

Section: Uniforms and The Battlefield: From Redcoats To Fractal Camouflagementioning

confidence: 99%

Paint it black: Colours and the social meaning of the battlefield

Guillaume

Andersen

Vuori

2015

European Journal of International Relations

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The modern battlefield is a judicial and social space as well as a spatio-temporal designation that has evolved through time. In this article, we argue that the shifts in the social meaning of what the battlefield is -from a 'deeply social marker of war's limitation' (Mégret, 2011: 133) to a hunting ground of a party over its game -can be seen in the colour-use on the battlefield. More specifically, we argue that the shift in the use of colours in military battlefield uniforms, from conspicuously colourful to camouflaged and blending in or disrupting shapes, can be seen to work as a semiotic vehicle to understand societal meanings attached to the battlefield. This builds on the idea that 'what soldiers wear is central to the public image of the military' (Tynan, 2013a: 27), to their own modes of being and action, and to the meaning of the battlefield itself. The most evident reading of this development in colour-use tends to be a functionalist one, where the development of toned-down colours and camouflage goes along with technological advances and needs in the face of more and more powerful observation and targeting tools. We offer another reading. Arguing through a semiotic analysis of colour-use, we examine colour-use on military battlefield uniforms in light of how imaginaries and practices of the battlefield evolve.

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Section: Uniforms and The Battlefield: From Redcoats To Fractal Camouflagementioning

confidence: 99%

Paint it black: Colours and the social meaning of the battlefield

Guillaume

Andersen

Vuori

2015

European Journal of International Relations

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“…58 Both the high and the more humble servants of the state also wished to associate themselves with royal authority. After more than a century of absolute rule, serving the king was the unrivalled source of status.…”

Section: Red and Goldmentioning

confidence: 99%

Uniform and Distinction: Symbolic Aspects of Officer Dress in the Eighteenth-Century Danish State

Lind¹

2010

Textile History

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Dressing early modern military officers in uniform was socially complicated. The history of Danish army officer uniforms during the long eighteenth century demonstrates how style of dress and lifestyle together were shaped by a number of social forces: signalling distinction and social superiority despite the core message of service and belonging transmitted by uniforms, reducing the stresses between individual desire for flexibility in dress and the love of uniformity of a heavily militarized and centralized absolute monarchy, and finally finding a way to maintain the distinction of the military man when civilian uniforms became common during the last decades of the century. Many of these developments reflected common European patterns, but others were shaped by the conditions of the heavily militarized northern European states or by the peculiar political and social mechanisms of the Danish monarchy. Uniform and Distinction Basic Aspects of the UniformIf we disregard certain strange dress items mainly found in the cavalry, such as the full Hungarian dress of the Hussars, eighteenth-century army uniforms were standard urban male dress: coat, waistcoat, shirt, breeches, stockings and shoes. Cavalrymen wore boots when riding, but so did civilians. Military dress changed a lot during the century on a superficial level. Colours changed, and so did the shape of hats, coats, buttons, cuffs, and so on. Some changes reflected internal considerations in the military organization, others changing male fashion. The waistcoat replaced the casaque as partner of the coat during the first decade of the eighteenth century. During the last decade, the long coat became a shorter frock and trousers replaced breeches. But, despite these modifications of the basic parts and a considerable volatility in the details, the uniform was essentially the same. 3 Few concessions were made to the functional requirements of military service. The most important was the choice of material. Except for the shirt, everything was made of wool. Silk and velvet, high fashion for most of the century, were only used for decorative details. Gaiters -often worn by civilians for travel and long walks -were another concession to the requirements of the service. Hats were standardized in certain shapes, only or mainly found among military men, such as the three-cornered hat, which was assumed to be practical when shooting. All ranks wore swords, and enlisted men needed to be able to carry various bags. This required appropriate belts and straps.Thus, a number of details revealed that this was a military uniform despite the general resemblance to standard urban dress. Most important, however, was uniformity itself, the resemblance of military men to each other. Like all European armies, the Danish army was dressed according to the practice of hierarchical uniformity. Hierarchical uniformity implied that some traits were standard for the whole army, others for all units of a certain kind, such as all infantry or dragoons, and still others were specific for a c...

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“…Além destas extensas pesquisas, existem trabalhos mais pontuais que vêm abrindo novas perspectivas para o estudo dos uniformes militares. O artigo de Philip Mansel (1982) tem especial interesse por se deter na importância que assumiu, nas cortes européias no período 1760-1830, o uso de uniformes militares e uniformes civis inspirados neles.…”

Section: Uniformes Militaresunclassified

Uniformes da Guarda Nacional: 1831-1852. A Indumentária na Organização e Funcionamento de uma Associação Armada

Almeida¹

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Quadro geral: a norma e os modelos Primeiro plano de uniformes Segundo plano de uniformes O fornecimento. Os sem-uniforme CAPÍTULO 6-FUNÇÕES PRAGMÁTICAS Proteção contra choques e intempéries Regulação da temperatura Favorecimento à mobilidade Roupas de baixo e higiene do corpo CAPÍTULO 7-FUNÇÕES DIACRÍTICAS Os postos da hierarquia 100 As armas militares 107 As unidades provinciais e locais 110 CAPÍTULO 8-FUNÇÕES SIMBÓLICAS Uniforme e honra do guarda nacional 116 Auto-imagem Qualidade do uniforme e diferenciação do guarda nacional Dos interesses públicos aos pessoais A faixa de escolha Imagem do estado: uniforme e exploração dos segmentos populares CAPÍTULO 9-CONSIDERAÇÕES FINAIS Guarda Nacional e Exército Guarda Nacional e modalidades de controle social A Guarda Nacional como associação estamental 10-BIBLIOGRAFIA 11-FONTES 12-ÍNDICE DAS ILUSTRAÇÕES

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MONARCHY, UNIFORM AND THE RISE OF THE FRAC 1760–1830

Cited by 19 publications

References 0 publications

Paint it black: Colours and the social meaning of the battlefield

Paint it black: Colours and the social meaning of the battlefield

Uniform and Distinction: Symbolic Aspects of Officer Dress in the Eighteenth-Century Danish State

Uniformes da Guarda Nacional: 1831-1852. A Indumentária na Organização e Funcionamento de uma Associação Armada

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