Keratin‐based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties

Tinoco, Ana; Gonçalves, José Aı́lton; Silva, Carla; Loureiro, Ana; Gomes, Andreia C.; Cavaco-Paulo, Artur

doi:10.1111/ics.12483

Cited by 25 publications

(50 citation statements)

References 34 publications

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“…Considering the 8 overbleaching cycles applied to the Asian hair, a loss of stiffness of about 21.5% and a loss of tensile strength of about 23.1% was verified, comparatively to the virgin Asian hair. These results agreed with the data previously reported by Tinoco et al , 2018 21 .…”

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 94%

Fusion proteins with chromogenic and keratin binding modules

Tinoco

Antunes

Martins

et al. 2019

Sci Rep

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The present research relates to a fusion protein comprising a chromogenic blue ultramarine protein (UM) bound to a keratin-based peptide (KP). The KP-UM fusion protein explores UM chromogenic nature together with KP affinity towards hair. For the first time a fusion protein with a chromogenic nature is explored as a hair coloring agent. The KP-UM protein colored overbleached hair, being the color dependent on the formulation polarity. The protein was able to bind to the hair cuticle and even to penetrate throughout the hair fibre. Molecular dynamics studies demonstrated that the interaction between the KP-UM protein and the hair was mediated by the KP sequence. All the formulations recovered the mechanical properties of overbleached hair and KP-UM proved to be safe when tested in human keratinocytes. Although based on a chromogenic non-fluorescent protein, the KP-UM protein presented a photoswitch phenomenon, changing from chromogenic to fluorescent depending on the wavelength selected for excitation. KP-UM protein shows the potential to be incorporated in new eco-friendly cosmetic formulations for hair coloration, decreasing the use of traditional dyes and reducing its environmental impact.

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Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 94%

Fusion proteins with chromogenic and keratin binding modules

Tinoco

Antunes

Martins

et al. 2019

Sci Rep

Self Cite

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“…This is interesting because peptides are added to hair formulations with the intention of increase hydration, brightness, smoothness and improve mechanical properties of the hair fiber, such as strength and resistance. 19 However, with this result, it was possible to observe the action of this active substance on the internal structure of the capillary fiber (cortex). 9 Hair Gloss Analysis Figure 8 showed the results of hair gloss analysis.…”

Section: Efficacy Tests Hair Combing Analysismentioning

confidence: 93%

Development of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients

Isnard¹,

Costa²,

Campos³

2019

Int J Phytocos Nat Ingred

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Introduction: The development of hair care cosmetic formulations with ingredients obtained from natural sources is a challenge since it can compromise the stability and performance of formulations. The search for innovative ingredients obtained from natural sources is important to overcome this challenge. In addition, the evaluation of the physicomechanical and sensorial proprieties, stability and effectiveness of hair formulations are fundamental to obtain formulations with good acceptance by consumers. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the stability, physical-mechanical, and sensorial properties, as well as the efficacy of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients. Methods: Shampoo and conditioner formulations containing natural ingredients such as hydrolyzed rice peptides and polysaccharides obtained from plants and biotechnological processes were developed. Stability, spreadability, hardness, texture profile, rheological behaviour and sensory properties of these formulations were evaluated. In addition, the efficacy of hair care formulations was assessed by break force, combability and brightness of hair samples. Results: Shampoo formulation containing hydrolyzed rice peptides had better results in the texture, hardness and spreadability parameters. Conditioner formulations with polysaccharides showed better performance in the tests. Regarding the hair effectiveness tests, all treatments increased the mechanical strength of the hair fiber as well as the strength in the combing test, but only shampoo formulation containing hydrolysed rice peptides increased the brightness of the hair. Moreover, the sensory analysis showed a correlation with the efficacy test by instrumental measurements. Conclusion: This study has a significant contribution since it showed that it is possible to develop stable and efficacy formulations with ingredients obtained from a natural source and the importance of the correlation between instrumental measurement data and sensory analysis.

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“…The values for viscosity and refractive index were 0.8872 cP and 1.330, respectively. Each sample was measured in triplicate, and the results are presented as mean value ± standard deviation [20].…”

Section: Formation Of Keratin Aggregatesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Due to its structure, keratin proteins are only soluble in solutions containing denaturing agents like urea, and reducing agents such as mercaptoethanol, which are capable to cleave the keratin disulphide bonds [4]. The keratin hydrolysates can be used in different applications: as odor-removing or deodorizing composition [7], included in skin-hair care cosmetic [8,9], in the enrichment of wheat straw for ruminant diets [10] or applied in the packaging of goods [11]. Also, the keratin proteins are widely used in the biomedical field, for wound healing [12], ocular [13] and nerve regeneration [14] and bone tissue engineering [15].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Ohmic heating as an innovative approach for the production of keratin films

Tinoco

Rodrigues

Machado

et al. 2020

International Journal of Biological Macromolecules

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Ohmic heating is a thermal processing method based on the application of electric fields directly into a semiconductive medium. In this study, we explored for the first time the use of ohmic heating to obtain keratin films. The properties of the films prepared by ohmic heating and conventional heating were evaluated and compared under similar thermal profiles. A lower increase in free thiols' concentration was obtained for the keratin solutions and keratin films submitted to ohmic heating (16% increase for the keratin solution extracted from virgin hair, pH 9, submitted to ohmic heating and 23% when submitted to conventional heating). Significant differences in the swelling results were observed for the films prepared with keratin extracted from virgin hair, with a swelling decrease in about 55% for the films prepared by ohmic heating. Generally, the keratin films obtained by ohmic heating showed distinct properties comparatively to the films produced by conventional methods. The application of a fusion protein on the keratin films demonstrated their capacity to be used as substitutes to hair fibers when evaluating the potential of new cosmetic products. This work suggests that ohmic heating show potential to tailor keratin films properties depending on an intended application or functionality.

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Keratin‐based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties

Abstract: The keratin-based particles here presented have the potential to be incorporated in the development of new and effective hair care cosmetic formulations.

Cited by 25 publications

References 34 publications

Fusion proteins with chromogenic and keratin binding modules

Fusion proteins with chromogenic and keratin binding modules

Development of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients

Ohmic heating as an innovative approach for the production of keratin films

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