Gastronomia de Taberna & Storytelling: Saberes e Sabores Que Reforçam a Identidade Cultural do Território

Abstract

A gastronomia de taberna, quando observada pela lente dos rituais identitários dos destinos, reflete os diversos marcadores simbólicos da sua génese cultural, permitindo que os saber fazer e os gostos culinários sejam mantidos vivos, e se tornem agentes de progresso regional. Os patrimónios alimentares são espaços de inovação (criatividade) e permanência (tradições), onde se valoriza cada vez mais não só o momento de preparar a comida, mas ainda os modos de socialização, de transmissão cultural e de storytelling. Aplicou-se uma metodologia de “triangulação” de fontes, contendo uma análise comparativa entre três livros de receituários tradicionais, visando elencar os pratos e petiscos mais autênticos e emblemáticos da gastronomia Alentejana. Importa que os Municípios e as entidades de turismo acarinhem o conceito de taberna apoiando a salvaguarda e preservação desses espaços e dessas culturas, e com isso, promover o desenvolvimento do território.

Creative Territory and Gastronomy: Cultural, Economic, and Political Dimensions of Tourism in Historic Brazilian Cities

“…Gastronomy is recognized as PCI in Brazilian normative instruments, such as the Federal Constitution of 1988, Decree 3.551/2000, the National Program of Intangible Heritage (PNPI), and documents published by IPHAN and UNESCO, which demonstrate the relevance of safeguarding the gastronomic identity. "Food heritages are spaces of innovation (creativity) and permanence (traditions), where more and more value is placed not only on the moment of preparing food, but also on modes of socialization, cultural transmission and storytelling" [15].…”

“…Importantly, the search for the consolidation of a local gastronomic culture is founded in the past, in the search for roots, traditions, and history. Simultaneously, it is looking to the present-a moment of fragmentation and standardization of identity-and thinking of the future [15] by projecting a consolidation of regional and national identity with gastronomy as its basis [16].…”

“…Salvado, Ferreira, Serra & Marujo [15] state that the culinary arts are among the cultural elements that make up the intangible cultural elements of a national identity, since they are the result of traditional knowledge that to a certain extent narrates the historical and social evolution of a people. Therefore, this knowledge must be safeguarded and promoted.…”

“…The procedures involving the descriptive movement allowed us to recognize that, among the 11 target municipalities of this study, the municipalities of Pelotas/Rio Grande do Sul, São João del Rei/Minas Gerais, and Sobral/Ceará showed indications of the existence of a creative territory based on gastronomy. Only the three have institutionalized recognition that gastronomy is intangible heritage which makes up cultural identity [5,15,18]. In Sobral, it was not possible to deepen the studies because the municipality was excluded in the later stages of the method, since there was no granting of an interview by the public management.…”

“…Regarding identity, São João del Rei has in the artisanal cheese one of the cultural elements that make up its cultural identity [5,15,18,19].…”