Food Peptides for the Nutricosmetic Industry

Abstract

In recent years, numerous reports have described bioactive peptides (biopeptides)/hydrolysates produced from various food sources. Biopeptides are considered interesting for industrial application since they show numerous functional properties (e.g., anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties) and technological properties (e.g., solubility, emulsifying, and foaming). Moreover, they have fewer side effects than synthetic drugs. Nevertheless, some challenges must be overcome before their administration via the oral route. The gastric, pancreatic, and small intestinal enzymes and acidic stomach conditions can affect their bioavailability and the levels that can reach the site of action. Some delivery systems have been studied to avoid these problems (e.g., microemulsions, liposomes, solid lipid particles). This paper summarizes the results of studies conducted on biopeptides isolated from plants, marine organisms, animals, and biowaste by-products, discusses their potential application in the nutricosmetic industry, and considers potential delivery systems that could maintain their bioactivity. Our results show that food peptides are environmentally sustainable products that can be used as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory agents in nutricosmetic formulations. Biopeptide production from biowaste requires expertise in analytical procedures and good manufacturing practice. It is hoped that new analytical procedures can be developed to simplify large-scale production and that the authorities adopt and regulate use of appropriate testing standards to guarantee the population’s safety.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

“…Red algae have the highest proteins and derivative contents (up to 47%), green algae have medium levels (between 9–26%), and brown algae contain the lowest concentrations (3–15%) [ 114 ]. Protein and bioactive peptides have high antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin proactive, and antiaging properties [ 115 , 116 , 117 ]. Pedoclimatic conditions affect the proteins, peptides, and amino acids contents in algae.…”

Development of a “Green” Emulsion with a Milk Protein Hydrolysate: An Evaluation of Rheology, Texture, In Vitro Bioactivity, and Safety

“…The potential benefits of topically applied peptides have been identified through research in the area of wound healing, as these compounds may have a positive effect on skin components, Cosmetics 2023, 10, 162 2 of 21 particularly collagen synthesis [3]. In general, peptides intended for topical use can be divided into four main categories based on their mechanism of action: signal peptides (stimulate matrix protein production, cell growth, and other cell metabolic functions); carrier peptides (facilitate the transport of trace elements within the cell); neurotransmitterinhibiting peptides (inhibit the release of acetylcholine and thus reduce the contraction of facial muscles and the expression of lines and wrinkles); and enzyme-inhibiting peptides (decrease the activity of enzymes related to skin aging) [3][4][5]. In addition, the application of cosmetic formulations containing peptides showed some immediate effects, including a significant increase in the water content of the stratum corneum layer, an increase in skin elasticity, and an improvement in microrelief after a single application [6].…”

“…Biopeptides are a new generation of active ingredients from natural sources, developed as a response to the growing consumer awareness of environmental protection and sustainability [2,4,7]. Researchers are particularly interested in food-derived bioactive peptides produced by the hydrolysis of food proteins (animal, marine, and plant origin) because they are naturally derived and considered "green" and potentially have few side effects [4,8]. Milk proteins (from cows, sheep, goats, etc.)…”

“…The biological activity of peptides depends on the protein source, the enzyme used, and the processing conditions, such as substrate concentration, enzyme/substrate ratio, incubation time, degree of hydrolysis (number of broken peptide bonds relative to the original protein), and physicochemical conditions during the process (pH and temperature) [8,15]. Therefore, to ensure high activity of the peptides formed, it is necessary to strictly control the degree of enzymatic hydrolysis [4].…”

“…The antioxidant activity depends on the structural properties of the peptides, such as molecular weight, hydrophobicity, and the presence of certain amino acids, as well as the amino acid sequence. It occurs through several mechanisms: hydrogen atom transfer (HAT), single-electron transfer (SET), and chelating (prooxidant) transition metals [4,7,12]. The hydrophobic character of peptides plays an important role in enhancing antioxidant properties by increasing the accessibility of the peptide to hydrophobic cellular targets, such as polyunsaturated fatty acids, in biological membranes [7].…”