Experimental study on the hydrodynamics of regular breaking waves

Serio, Francesca De; Mossa, Michele

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.09.021

Cited by 52 publications

(64 citation statements)

References 17 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…This sediment excursion is consistent with the excursion of TKE highlighted in Chapter 2, suggesting that suspended sediment particles are trapped in turbulent vortices that are partly breaking generated. It has been suggested that the phase coupling of TKE and suspended sediment concentrations under plunging breakers may enhance the wave related suspended sediment transport (Ting and Kirby, 1994;Boers, 2005;De Serio and Mossa, 2006). However, in the present study, the particles trapped in turbulent vortices are advected back and forth, resulting in local (Eulerian) concentration changes but generally not in a net wave related transport contribution at elevations outside the WBL.…”

Section: Discussioncontrasting

confidence: 44%

“…In small scale laboratory studies with plunging waves, breaking generated TKE rapidly saturates the water column and dissipates almost completely before the end of the wave cycle, leading to a strong temporal variation in TKE (e.g. Ting and Kirby, 1995;De Serio and Mossa, 2006). However, in the present experiments, the temporal variation in TKE is much smaller; TKE builds up over multiple wave cycles since a large fraction of breaking generated turbulence persists into the subsequent wave cycle (c.f.…”

Section: Scale Of Experimentscontrasting

confidence: 46%

“…Based on turbulence observations in small scale wave flumes, it has been hypothesized that the correlation between time varying breaking generated turbulent kinetic energy and wave phase may contribute to onshore or offshore directed sediment transport (Ting and Kirby, 1995;Boers, 2005;De Serio and Mossa, 2006). However, the intra wave variation in breaking generated turbulence at the bed has never been examined for large scale conditions.…”

Section: Turbulencementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Based on experimental observations of time varying turbulence, several small scale studies have suggested an enhanced wave related suspended transport rate under plunging waves (Ting and Kirby, 1995;Boers, 2005;De Serio and Mossa, 2006). Onshore directed wave related suspended fluxes have indeed been observed in the breaking region (Ruessink et al, 1998;Aagaard and Hughes, 2010;Yoon and Cox, 2012).…”

Section: Suspended Sediment Transport Processesmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 3 more Smart Citations

Sand transport processes in the surf and swash zones

Zanden¹

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Section: Discussioncontrasting

confidence: 44%

Section: Scale Of Experimentscontrasting

confidence: 46%

Section: Turbulencementioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Suspended Sediment Transport Processesmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Sand transport processes in the surf and swash zones

Zanden¹

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

“…LDV has been used to measure the flow structure, undertow, turbulence intensity, turbulent transport terms, and Reynolds stresses in small laboratory surf zones under spilling and plunging breakers (e.g., Stive, 1980;Nadaoka and Kondoh, 1982;Ting and Kirby, 1994;Ting and Kirby, 1995;Ting and Kirby, 1996;Stansby and Feng, 2005;De Serio and Mossa, 2006;Shin and Cox, 2006). However, measurements using LDV are usually restricted below wave trough level due to the failure of this technique (signal drop-out) in the aerated region of breaking waves.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Measurements of Surface Kinematics and Temperature in the Surf and Swash Zones Using Infrared Image Velocimetry

Huang

Hwang²,

Lenain

et al. 2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

High intensity air bubbles generated in the surf zone and the thinning of swash flow make velocity measurements particularly challenging in coastal areas. These facts have led the need for a new measurement technique to quantify the surf and swash flow dynamics. Here, we tested infrared image techniques to measure the surface temperature and then to derive the velocity fields using cross-correlation algorithm for large-scale solitary waves breaking in the surf and swash zones. From the comparison with unspiked electromagnetic current meter (EMCM) data and previous validation, it is suggested that the infrared image velocimetry (IRIV) is satisfactory to quantify the surface turbulent flow in the surf and swash zones. The data obtained in the experiment provides a new description of surface thermal structure and kinematics for solitary breaking waves. Two-dimensional organized streaks of temperature structures are evident on the water surface behind the head of rebounding jet. Wavenumber spectrum analysis shows that the directionality of these thermal signatures evolves with time. Evolution of vorticity on the water surface during the run-up and run-down process of the solitary broken wave is discussed.

show abstract

Laboratory observations of flow and sediment transport induced by plunging regular waves

Sumer

Güner

Hansen

et al. 2013

J. Geophys. Res. Oceans

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

[1] Two parallel experiments involving the evolution and runup induced by plunging regular waves near the shoreline of a sloping bed are considered: (1) a rigid-bed experiment, allowing direct (hot film) measurements of bed shear stresses and (2) a sediment-bed experiment, allowing for the measurement of pore-water pressures as well as observation of sediment suspension and bed morphological changes. Both experiments utilize the same initial bed profile and wave forcing. The experiments show that the mean bed shear stresses experienced onshore of incipient breaking are amplified by nearly a factor of 2 relative to prebreaking conditions, whereas their corresponding turbulent fluctuations are amplified even more strongly, by a factor of 5-6. The plunging processes lead to a series of vortices, whose formation may be explained as the result of shear layer instability. Measurements show that these vortices can significantly enhance peaks in the offshoredirected bed shear stresses. Moreover, near-bed pore pressure measurements indicate that these vortices cause large upward-directed pressure gradients, which in turn produce a corresponding series of suspended sediment plumes shoreward of the initial breaking event. These findings are related to the induced morphological changes over both short and long time scales. The present results are also compared and contrasted with previous experiments utilizing a similar methodology, but involving plunging solitary waves.

show abstract

Experimental study on the hydrodynamics of regular breaking waves

Cited by 52 publications

References 17 publications

Sand transport processes in the surf and swash zones

Sand transport processes in the surf and swash zones

Measurements of Surface Kinematics and Temperature in the Surf and Swash Zones Using Infrared Image Velocimetry

Laboratory observations of flow and sediment transport induced by plunging regular waves

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About