Effect of fermentation time on the content of bioactive compounds with cosmetic and dermatological properties in Kombucha Yerba Mate extracts

Abstract

Kombucha is a beverage made by fermenting sugared tea using a symbiotic culture of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and the yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces along with glucuronic acid, which has health-promoting properties. The paper presents the evaluation of ferments as a potential cosmetic raw material obtained from Yerba Mate after different fermentation times with the addition of Kombucha. Fermented and unfermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. The antioxidant potential of obtained ferments was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of external and intracellular free radicals. Cytotoxicity was determined on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines, resulting in significant increase in cell viability for the ferments. The ferments, especially after 14 and 21 days of fermentation showed strong ability to inhibit (about 40% for F21) the activity of lipoxygenase, collagenase and elastase enzymes and long‐lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Moreover, active chemical compounds, including phenolic acids, xanthines and flavonoids were identified by HPLC/ESI–MS. The results showed that both the analyzed Yerba Mate extract and the ferments obtained with Kombucha may be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products

“…At present, ferments obtained with the use of a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY), which enable obtaining a large amount of compounds with a broad spectrum of activity, are gaining popularity [ 18 ]. Although initially SCOBY was primarily used to ferment tea leaves, more and more research is underway using alternative raw materials, as well as by-products, that can be fermented using this consortium of bacteria and yeast [ 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 , 23 ]. These works indicate that this fermentation leads to the production of extremely valuable chemical compounds; hence, the search for new plant materials that can undergo this type of fermentation is justified.…”

Assessment of the Anti-Inflammatory, Antibacterial and Anti-Aging Properties and Possible Use on the Skin of Hydrogels Containing Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts

“…The possibility of inhibiting the lipoxygenase enzyme was assessed based on the method described by Ziemlewska et al (2021). In the first step, on a standard 96-well plate, 10 µl of each concentration of test hydrogels (0.1, 1.0, and 5.0%) were mixed with 160 µl of 100 mM PBS and 20 µl of soybean lipoxygenase solution (167 U/ml).…”

“…In contrast, the proteinases affect the degradation of skin proteins, such as collagen and elastin, which, among others, determine its flexibility (Ziemlewska et al, 2021). An important parameter assessing the anti-inflammatory properties of plant material is protein denaturation.…”

Skin Aging, Cellular Senescence and Natural Polyphenols

“…The extracts from yerba mate, a tea prepared from the leaves and stems of Ilex paraguariensis , obtained after different fermentation times, showed a significant enhancement effect on the cell viability of HaCaT keratinocytes and BJ fibroblasts [ 322 ]. The extracts also showed strong inhibitory effects on the activity of lipoxygenase, collagenase and elastase enzymes, as well as the hydration effects on the forearm skin in human volunteers.…”