Body-to-Pattern Relationships in Women’s Trouser Drafting Methods

McKinney, Ellen; Gill, Simeon; Dorie, Amy; Roth, Shannon

doi:10.1177/0887302x16664406

Cited by 35 publications

(43 citation statements)

References 25 publications

(46 reference statements)

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…Currently pattern drafting remains a manual task often performed using one of a number of different methods. Analysis of pattern drafting methods has been undertaken to determine ease [7], understand theories incorporated into the process [5], and even to show how approaches can better recognise the individual size, shape, and proportions used in the process [6]. However there have been no studies focused on how body scanning technology directly informs existing methods of pattern drafting.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…However, the creation of Proceedings of 3DBODY.TECH 2017 8th International Conference and Exhibition on 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies, Montreal, Canada, 11-12 Oct. 2017 pattern blocks remains something almost exclusively done manually using 1D measurements, as has been the case from the start of the methods. Another factor which needs to be considered is the application of proportional rules during the draft process [1], [6], [15]. This is often used in place of actual measurements that may have historically been difficult to take.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Not All Body Scanning Measurements Are Valid: Perspectives from Pattern Practice

Gill¹,

Ahmed²,

Parker³

et al. 2017

Proceedings of 3DBODY.TECH 2017 - 8th International Conference and Exhibition On 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies,

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

To assume all body scanning measurements are valid for apparel product development is wrong. While human measurement forms the basis for product development and body scanning represents a significant development in the collection of human measurements [1], a distinction must be drawn between measurements suitable for product development (pattern cutting) and those required for the creation of sizing systems. The application of body scanning has largely focused on sizing surveys [2], the standards used in developing the technology are tailored toward surveys [3], [4] and subsequently measurements are often not defined in a manner suitable to developing products. This research began with analysis of product development practices and body scanning outputs to determine the suitability of body scanning to support existing methods of product development. Six methods of pattern development, established from previous research to represent the variation of approaches [5]- [7] were selected, the measurements required for these methods were compared to measurement outputs from both a Size Stream and [TC] 2 body scanner. Further analysis was made regarding the development of custom measurements for each scan system, to see if extra measurements could be defined to match those required or enhance the data used to drive the draft process. Whilst there are promising developments in automated pattern creation [8], [9], there is little existing theory or clear understanding of pattern to person relationships to enable the full realization and embedding of these systems. As well as understanding the suitability of scan measurements for pattern development, this research also recommends further measurements which may improve the patterns' ability to accord with the individual size, shape and proportion of the wearer. This research shows that there are a range of measurements used for pattern making and these are not all available from existing body scanning systems. Key landmarks and measurements are identified and this research shows how body scanning technology can be developed to support existing and developing methods of pattern development.

show abstract

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Not All Body Scanning Measurements Are Valid: Perspectives from Pattern Practice

Gill¹,

Ahmed²,

Parker³

et al. 2017

Proceedings of 3DBODY.TECH 2017 - 8th International Conference and Exhibition On 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies,

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Consequently, each recommends methods believed to be useful for shaping pattern to body in post-drafting garment fittings. [10] [11] [12] Furthermore, traditional pattern-drafting theory is inclusive of ease, making it difficult to isolate the pattern dimensions specifically required for body shape from that required for ease alone. [13] Pattern blocks are the base patterns from which all garments originate.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Novel Methods to Drive Pattern Engineering through and for Enhanced Use of 3D Technologies

Scott¹,

Gill²,

Mcdonald³

2019

Proceedings of 3DBODY.TECH 2019 - 10th International Conference and Exhibition on 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies,

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Key obstacles to apparel digitization, frequently and symptomatically observed as limitations within 3D technologies, can be summarized as a lack of theory to quantify body shape and garment ease. Whether discussing garment fit on parametric avatars, automated virtual garment design, mass garment customization, improved garment sizing, or accurate size prediction, apparel digitization has repeatedly been hindered by a lack of theory linking the garment and its shaping requirements to the human form. This is because neither 1D (tape measure) dimensions nor a 3D flattened polygon mesh can quantify body shape with respect to developing garment patterns conducive to apparel manufacturing. While novel pattern-engineering theory offers body-to-pattern guidance to isolate ease and body shape dimensions, acquiring the required measurements (outside the scope of both ISO boundaries and current measurement extraction software) has proven prohibitive. To prove scan-to-pattern digital viability a study explored the potential for updated measurement extraction software to access underutilized body scan data to drive Clone Block® body-to-pattern theory. Solidworks 3D software was used to manually extract measurements from a body scan and Intelligent Shaping® software was used for automated Clone Block® pattern development. The suitability of the measurements for supporting body-to-pattern theory was then tested based on the ability of the resulting pattern to hug body morphology while maintaining horizontal and vertical fabric grain. The results of the study indicate automated measurement acquisition to drive Clone Block® shaping methodologies for scan-to-pattern automation is feasible. Based on the premise that garment fit is the result of fit-reality (body shape) plus fit-preference (ease), this study is significant in offering a means by which underutilized scanned body data may be accessed to quantify body shape and ease. Further study should confirm that updated measurement extraction software can automate the retrieval of measurement data and the Clone Block® scan-to-pattern methods (used extensively in a bespoke environment) work on an extended range of body shapes including bodies with dysmorphia. Discussions surrounding ease distribution for body shape should also be studied for foundational mathematical fit-preference and ease theory.

show abstract

“…Most research has reported that using a specific pattern drafting method for different body shapes or sizes yields varied results [1]- [5]. This highlights the need for differently shaped garments to achieve good fit and the importance of developing a method of taking measurements and pattern construction methods to better reflect individuals or populations variability.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Suitability of Body Scanning Measurement in Pattern Drafting Methods

Ahmed¹,

Alrushaydan²,

Gill³

et al. 2019

Proceedings of 3DBODY.TECH 2019 - 10th International Conference and Exhibition on 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies,

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

There has been much recognition that body scanning can provide more data on the human body than traditional measurements alone. Nevertheless, it is not always possible to extract the many measurements that are required by existing methods of pattern construction, due to the differences in the measurements captured between manual and body scanning methods. The conventional methods that are used for drafting pattern blocks do not incorporate data pertaining to body measurements to a large extent. This can be traced back to the fact that traditional pattern drafting approaches are from a time when obtaining some measurements were difficult and certain measurements were easier to extract than others. To overcome the lack of data, post-drafting modifications are performed to accomplish an appropriate fit, and most pattern books are accompanied with detailed guidance as to how to adjust the blocks to take into consideration typical figure disparities. Body scanning technology makes it possible to acquire body configuration data that has been traditionally challenging to access. This type of technology can be employed to investigate body shapes and collate pertinent measurements. It can also be employed to delineate dimensions, something that was not previously possible. Moreover, appropriate scan data allows a challenge to existing drafting methods and the proposal of new ways of creating patterns that is based on actual measurements rather than proportional relationships. This study commences by analysing existing 2D pattern construction methods and the myriad outputs of body scanning technology to examine the extent to which body scanning can complement conventional pattern drafting approaches. Ten pattern-making techniques for bodices and trousers were assessed, and the measurements that were needed for these techniques were compared to the measurements that were generated by a body scanning system. The research established how well the measurements required for different drafting methods can be produced from 3D body scanning technology. The main contribution of this study is to highlight where measurements that are required for pattern construction be defined as outputs within body scanner systems. This would allow the body scanner to offer more suitable measurement support for pattern drafting methods.

show abstract

Body-to-Pattern Relationships in Women’s Trouser Drafting Methods

Cited by 35 publications

References 25 publications

Not All Body Scanning Measurements Are Valid: Perspectives from Pattern Practice

Not All Body Scanning Measurements Are Valid: Perspectives from Pattern Practice

Novel Methods to Drive Pattern Engineering through and for Enhanced Use of 3D Technologies

The Suitability of Body Scanning Measurement in Pattern Drafting Methods

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About