A Study on Wave Transformation Inside Surf Zone

Horikawa, Kiyoshi; Kuo, Chia‐Wei

doi:10.1061/9780872620087.015

Cited by 20 publications

(24 citation statements)

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“…Thus, the greater slope of the rocky platform section is due to the lower incident energy. Horikawa and Kuo (1966) and Wang and Kraus (2005) present comparisons of wave decay at beaches with and without rocky platforms.…”

Section: -----------------------------=mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Also important is the research associated with breaking waves and the consequent effect of their energy on submerged horizontal platforms (Gerritsen 1980, Nelson 1994, Gourlay 1994, Hardy and Young 1996, González et al 1999, Eversole and Fletcher 2003. According to Horikawa and Kuo (1966), the relation between local wave height and mean depth decreases from a value of 0.8 at the initial break point to an almost constant value (around 0.5) closer to shore. Fredsoe and Deigaard (1992) presented a mathematical expression for this phenomenon:…”

Section: Comment and Reply / Comentario Y Respuestamentioning

confidence: 99%

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Comment on Avila-Serrano et al. “Sediment variations and littoral transport atLa Victoria Beach, Cádiz, Spain”

Muñoz-Perez

Gómez-Pina

2010

Cienc. Mar.

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confidence: 99%

Section: Comment and Reply / Comentario Y Respuestamentioning

confidence: 99%

Comment on Avila-Serrano et al. “Sediment variations and littoral transport atLa Victoria Beach, Cádiz, Spain”

Muñoz-Perez

Gómez-Pina

2010

Cienc. Mar.

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“…Horikawa and Kuo (1966) proposed the wave phase velocity based on the second-order solitary wave theory as,…”

Section: Validationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Long-Term Nearshore Bathymetry Evolution From Video Imagery: A Case Study in the Miyazaki Coast

Liu

Arii

Sato

et al. 2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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A four-year evaluation of the nearshore morphology based on video imagery was conducted in the Miyazaki coast, Japan. An automatic nearshore bathymetry mapping technique was developed based on the linear wave dispersion relationship, in which the wave phase velocity was estimated from the cross-correlation of neighboring pixels' brightness time series. Bathymetry estimation was carried out at both low and high tide levels of each day and integrated over a 7-day period which includes both the neap and spring tides. Model validation shows the present technique reproduced the ground truth data fairly well with a bias generally less than 0.3 m in the surf zone. In total, 88 bathymetry data were obtained within the investigation period. Subsequently, a two dimensional Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis was applied to the time series of the obtained nearshore bathymetry data in order to investigate their long-term morphological behavior. Results from the first three modes of the EOF analysis represent the bathymetry variation from the nearshore response due to the cross-shore processes. The first mode reveals the coastal erosion occurred during the study period with a net loss of sand volume in the target region. Erosion was severe before December 2008, especially in the offshore region, and mitigated afterwards resulting a relatively equilibrium stage for the mean beach profile. The second mode shows the mean beach profile rotated in an anti-clockwise direction around a cross-shore location of 50 m away from the present shoreline, which led to a milder beach slope in the study period. The third mode represents the cross-shore movement of the longshore bar. Higher modes of the EOF analysis, such as fourth, fifth and sixth modes, correspond to the bathymetry variation due to the longshore sediment movement which frequently changed its direction as indicated from a number of nodal points in the relevant temporal eigenfunction distribution. Based on the EOF analysis, it is also confirmed that the nearshore morphological process in the target area was predominant by the cross-shore sand movement.

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“…Figure 1 graphically shows the breaker depth index dependency on wave steepness and bottom slope (Equation 5). Smith and Kraus (1991) combined monochromatic laboratory data from Iversen (1952), Horikawa and Kuo (1966), Galvin (1969), Saeki and Sasaki (1973), Iwagaki et al (1974), Walker (1974), Singaxnsetti and Wind (1980), Mizuguchi (1980), Maruyama et al (1983), Visser (1982), and Stive (1985) with data collected in their own experiments to empirically obtain Chapter 2 Incipient Wave Breaking The coefficient 0.56 was determined empirically from laboratory and field data. Smith and Kraus (1991) In irregular seas, incipient breaking may occur over a wide zone as individual waves of different heights and periods reach their steepness limits.…”

Section: Breaker Typementioning

confidence: 99%

Nearshore Wave Breaking and Decay

Smith¹

1993

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A Study on Wave Transformation Inside Surf Zone

Cited by 20 publications

References 2 publications

Comment on Avila-Serrano et al. “Sediment variations and littoral transport atLa Victoria Beach, Cádiz, Spain”

Comment on Avila-Serrano et al. “Sediment variations and littoral transport atLa Victoria Beach, Cádiz, Spain”

Long-Term Nearshore Bathymetry Evolution From Video Imagery: A Case Study in the Miyazaki Coast

Nearshore Wave Breaking and Decay

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