A New Shape Function for Bar-Type Beach Profiles

Remote sensing of breaking wave phase speeds with application to non-linear depth inversions

“…In order to place these results in the context of typical bar sizes and water depths as found in the field, we utilize the equilibrium bar profile model of Hsu et al (2006). Without going into detail, the model provides an analytic, barred profile shape based on given input wave conditions.…”

“…In order to characterize the typical bar height as a function of water depth, the equilibrium profile of Hsu et al (2006) was calibrated with two barred profiles measured at the US Army Corp of Engineers Field Research Facility, in Duck, NC (www. frf.usace.army.mil/).…”

“…In particular the profiles collected during October 11, 1990 and 1994 near y = 950 m were used. The profiles were non dimensionalized by the depth and cross-shore coordinate at the bar crest, which enables a direct comparison with the model of Hsu et al (2006), whose general expression is H ¼ A 1 1 À exp ÀB 1 X À Á À A 2 exp ÀB 3 1ÀX ð Þ sechB 2 1 À X ð Þ þ A 2 exp ÀB 3 sechB 2 ; ðB:1Þ…”

“…It was found that the base term in the model of Hsu et al (2006) yielded values that were too deep, in which case the bar height was about the same as the depth of the bar crest. Furthermore, this provided small values of Δh min allowing almost full observance of the bars.…”

“…Calibration of the model ofHsu et al (2006) and determination of the relevant vertical distances. Red thick line is the calibrated model; thin lines correspond to the Duck profiles.…”