Immediate and long-term effects of polysaccharides-based formulations on human skin

Abstract

A new trend in cosmetic formulations is the use of biotechnological raw materials as the polysaccharides from Klebsiella pneumoniae, which are supposed to enhance cell renewal, improve skin hydration and micro-relief. Botanical extracts of Myrtus communis leaves contain different sugars, which may provide the same benefits. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate through objective and subjective analysis the immediate and long-term effects of cosmetic formulations containing polysaccharides biotechnologically-originated and / or the ones contained in Myrtus communis extracts. Three polysaccharide-based and placebo formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 40 volunteers. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), viscoelasticity and skin micro-relief measurements were made before and 2 hours after a single application and after 15 and 30 day-periods of daily applications. Answers to a questionnaire about perceptions of formulation cosmetic features constituted the subjective analysis. All polysaccharide-based formulations enhanced skin hydration. Formulations with isolated or combined active substances improved skin barrier function as compared to placebo, in the short and long term studies. Formulations containing Myrtus communis extracts had the highest acceptance. Results suggest that daily use of formulations containing these substances is important for protection of the skin barrier function. Uma nova tendência em formulações cosméticas é a utilização de matérias-primas biotecnológicas como os polissacarídeos de Klebsiella pneumoniae, que pode aumentar a renovação celular e melhor a hidratação e micro-relevo da pele. Por outro lado, o extrato vegetal de Myrtus communis contém diferentes polissacarídeos, que também podem proporcionar benefícios à pele. Assim, o objetivo do estudo foi a avaliação dos efeitos imediatos e em longo prazo, de formulações cosméticas contendo polissacarídeos obtidos por processo biotecnológico e/ou de extrato de M. communis por meio de análises objetivas e subjetivas. Três formulações contendo os polissacarídeos e um placebo foram aplicadas na pele dos antebraços de 40 voluntários. As medidas foram realizadas antes e após 2 horas da aplicação das formulações e após 15 e 30 dias de aplicações diárias em termos de hidratação da pele, perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL), viscoelasticidade e micro-relevo da pele. Para a análise subjetiva, os voluntários responderam um questionário a fim de obter-se informações sobre a percepção relativa à qualidade de cosméticos. Todas as formulações provocaram aumento da hidratação cutânea. As formulações que continham os polissacarídeos melhoraram a função barreira da pele, em curto e em longo prazo. A formulação contendo extrato de M. communis apresentou maior aceitação. Os resultados sugerem que o uso diário dos polissacarídeos avaliados é importante na proteção da função barreira da pele.Unitermos: Polissacarídeos/uso cosmético. Klebsiella pneumoniae/uso cosmético. Myrtus communis/ uso cosmético. Formulações cosméticas/aval...

Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract

“…The emulsion and hydrogel with 5% of Centella asiatica extract showed 18 and 15%, the emulsion and hydrogel with 2.5% of Centella asiatica extract have showed 10 and 8%, and placebo showed 5% in comparison to the control area ( P <0.05), respectively. The decrease in TEWL after application of the emulsions was mainly related to the presence in the Centella asiatica extract the substances which can bind water on the stratum corneum surface by forming an occlusive hydrophilic film and can improve the state of the epidermal barrier, for example sugars, saponins and polyphenols[ 1 9 10 15 17 ]. The effect of emulsion and hydrogel with Centella asiatica extract on the epidermal barrier function and hydration of the stratum corneum has not been widely studied.…”

“…The effect of emulsion and hydrogel with Centella asiatica extract on the epidermal barrier function and hydration of the stratum corneum has not been widely studied. The present results indicate that the emulsion with Centella asiatica extract has a significant impact on the skin hydratation and epidermal barrier function, especially on the epidermal barrier tightness, which is attributed to the presence of carbohydrates and natural antioxidants such as saponins, flavonoids and phenolic compounds[ 1 17 ]. In in vivo studies the emulsion with 5% of Centella asiatica extract showed the best effect on the skin hydration and the epidermal barrier function.…”

Advances in Plant Polysaccharides as Antiaging Agents: Effects and Signaling Mechanisms

“…Plant polysaccharide-based formulations have been reported to possess better sensorial attributes and anti-skin aging effects, leading to a high degree of acceptance by human volunteers. 170 For example, an study 171 A nanoemulsion was developed containing 5% of a fraction of Agave sisalana leaf polysaccharides, and it increased the water content of the stratum corneum compared to a nanoemulsion without polysaccharides on the skin of volunteers. 172 A gel containing Scaphium scaphigerum polysaccharides promoted moisture retention for up to 70 min on the skin of volunteers, and this formulation had better action than other gels.…”

“…The results showed that Klebsiella pneumoniae polysaccharide-based formulations reduced transepidermal water loss, enhanced skin hydration, and improved skin barrier function. Moreover, this formulation had good acceptance by human volunteers . A nanoemulsion was developed containing 5% of a fraction of Agave sisalana leaf polysaccharides, and it increased the water content of the stratum corneum compared to a nanoemulsion without polysaccharides on the skin of volunteers .…”

Overcoming Skin Damage from Pollution via Novel Skincare Strategies

“…Several products that currently focus exclusively on protection against environmental pollution are sold in the cosmetics market. The so-called anti-pollution products contain active ingredients that isolate the skin from external environmental factors, forming on its surface a protective film like a "second skin" [12]. Some of them are enriched with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients that help strengthen the natural defences of the skin cells and repair skin damage.…”