New strategies for the delivery of bioactives in the deeper layers of the skin have been studied in recent years, using mainly natural ingredients. Among the strategies are organogels as a promising tool to load bioactives with different physicochemical characteristics, using vegetable oils. Studies have shown satisfactory skin permeation, good physicochemical stability mainly due to its three-dimensional structure, and controlled release using vegetable oils and low-molecular-weight organogelators. Within the universe of natural ingredients, vegetable oils, especially those from the Amazon, have a series of benefits and characteristics that make them unique compared to conventional oils. Several studies have shown that the use of Amazonian oils brings a series of benefits to the skin, among which are an emollient, moisturizing, and nourishing effect. This work shows a compilation of the main Amazonian oils and their nutraceutical and physicochemical characteristics together with the minority polar components, related to health benefits, and their possible effects on the synthesis of organogels for cosmetic purposes.
Organogel (OG) is a semi-solid material composed of gelling molecules organized in the presence of an appropriate organic solvent, through physical or chemical interactions, in a continuous net. This investigation aimed at preparing and characterizing an organogel from acai oil with hyaluronic acid (HA) structured by 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), aiming at topical anti-aging application. Organogels containing or not containing HA were analyzed by Fourier-transform Infrared Spectroscopy, polarized light optical microscopy, thermal analysis, texture analysis, rheology, HA quantification and oxidative stability. The organogel containing hyaluronic acid (OG + HA) has a spherulitic texture morphology with a net-like structure and absorption bands that evidenced the presence of HA in the three-dimensional net of organogel. The thermal analysis confirmed the gelation and the insertion of HA, as well as a good thermal stability, which is also confirmed by the study of oxidative stability carried out under different temperature conditions for 90 days. The texture and rheology studies indicated a viscoelastic behavior. HA quantification shows the efficiency of the HA cross-linking process in the three-dimensional net of organogel with 11.22 µg/mL for cross-linked HA. Thus, it is concluded that OG + HA shows potentially promising physicochemical characteristics for the development of a cosmetic system.
Annatto seed oil (ASO) and cupuassu seed fat (CSF) were combined at the ratios: 30:70, 50:50, and 70:30 (% w/w). Their fatty acid profile, nutritional quality, FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared) spectra, and rheological behavior were evaluated. ASO increased the content of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the blends; whereas CSF conferred higher contents of monounsaturated fatty acids. The blends exhibited low atherogenicity and thrombogenicity indices, suggesting nutritional advantages. The Newtonian fluid behavior and FTIR results suggested that mixing ASO and CSF at different proportions did not affect the functional groups. ASO showed an activation energy value which indicated that this fat viscosity was more sensitive to temperature changes. The Newtonian model proved to be suitable to describe the behavior of samples, according to statistical fit parameters R2, χ2, and RSS. The resulting blends presented improved physicochemical properties and nutritional attributes, indicating their feasibility for the development of new products.
Theoretical framework: Vegetable oils in the cosmetics market are gaining more and more notoriety because they contain mainly antioxidants as bioactive substances. Free radicals are one of the main responsible for skin aging, which is characterized by the set of inevitable changes that occur progressively in our body and is classified as intrinsic and extrinsic aging, leading to visual changes in both the epidermis and dermis due to the decrease in fibers collagen, elastic and glycosaminoglycans. Although it is currently impossible to prevent or reverse genetic processes of intrinsic aging, the changes caused by free radicals that trigger extrinsic aging can be prevented naturally with the use of oil-based cosmeceuticals. Objective: To review studies in the literature on the use of vegetable oils to prevent skin aging. Material and Methods: A qualitative review of the narrative-type literature was carried out, consulting scientific articles indexed in the electronic databases, SCIENCE DIRECT, SciELO, LILACS, MedLine and PubMed. Results: A current trend in the market for increasingly safer, biocompatible and effective cosmetics is to combine vegetable oils with antioxidant characteristics with other natural and / or synthetic actives in order to provide different functions and associated effects, such as combating premature aging and provide elasticity, firmness, hydration, among other benefits. Conclusion: Brazil has become a primordial country due to the abundance of natural resources in its forest, offering plant ingredients made up of bioactive compounds to the world scenario that work to combat the damage caused by free radicals.
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