The assessment of percutaneous permeation of molecules is a key step in the evaluation of dermal or transdermal delivery systems. If the drugs are intended for delivery to humans, the most appropriate setting in which to do the assessment is the in vivo human. However, this may not be possible for ethical, practical, or economic reasons, particularly in the early phases of development. It is thus necessary to find alternative methods using accessible and reproducible surrogates for in vivo human skin. A range of models has been developed, including ex vivo human skin, usually obtained from cadavers or plastic surgery patients, ex vivo animal skin, and artificial or reconstructed skin models. Increasingly, largely driven by regulatory authorities and industry, there is a focus on developing standardized techniques and protocols. With this comes the need to demonstrate that the surrogate models produce results that correlate with those from in vivo human studies and that they can be used to show bioequivalence of different topical products. This review discusses the alternative skin models that have been developed as surrogates for normal and diseased skin and examines the concepts of using model systems for in vitro–in vivo correlation and the demonstration of bioequivalence.

The goal of topical and cutaneous delivery is to deliver therapeutic and other substances to a desired target site in the skin at appropriate doses to achieve a safe and efficacious outcome. Normally, however, when the stratum corneum is intact and the skin barrier is uncompromised, this is limited to molecules that are relatively lipophilic, small and uncharged, thereby excluding many potentially useful therapeutic peptides, proteins, vaccines, gene fragments or drug-carrying particles. In this review we will describe how nanosystems are being increasingly exploited for topical and cutaneous delivery, particularly for these previously difficult substances. This is also being driven by the development of novel technologies, which include minimally invasive delivery systems and more precise fabrication techniques. While there is a vast array of nanosystems under development and many undergoing advanced clinical trials, relatively few have achieved full translation to clinical practice. This slow uptake may be due, in part, to the need for a rigorous demonstration of safety in these new nanotechnologies. Some of the safety aspects associated with nanosystems will be considered in this review.

Curcumin is a natural product with chemopreventive and other properties that are potentially useful in treating skin diseases, including psoriasis and melanoma. However, because of the excellent barrier function of the stratum corneum and the relatively high lipophilicity of curcumin (log P 3.6), skin delivery of curcumin is challenging. We used the principles of a Quality by Design (QbD) approach to develop nanoemulsion formulations containing biocompatible components, including Labrasol and Lecithin as surfactants and Transcutol and ethanol as cosurfactants, to enhance the skin delivery of curcumin. The nanoemulsions were characterised by cryo-SEM, Zeta potential, droplet size, pH, electrical conductivity (EC) and viscosity (η). Physicochemical long-term stability (6 months) was also investigated. The mean droplet sizes as determined by dynamic light scattering (DLS) were in the lower submicron range (20–50 nm) and the average Zeta potential values were low (range: −0.12 to −2.98 mV). Newtonian flow was suggested for the nanoemulsions investigated, with dynamic viscosity of the nanoemulsion formulations ranging from 5.8 to 31 cP. The droplet size of curcumin loaded formulations remained largely constant over a 6-month storage period. The inclusion of terpenes to further enhance skin permeation was also examined. All nanoemulsions significantly enhanced the permeation of curcumin through heat-separated human epidermal membranes, with the greatest effect being a 28-fold increase in maximum flux (Jmax) achieved with a limonene-based nanoemulsion, compared to a 60% ethanol in water control vehicle. The increases in curcumin flux were associated with increased skin diffusivity. In summary, we demonstrated the effectiveness of nanoemulsions for the skin delivery of the lipophilic active compound curcumin, and elucidated the mechanism of permeation enhancement. These formulations show promise as delivery vehicles for curcumin to target psoriasis and skin cancer, and more broadly for other skin delivery applications.