Propionibacterium acnes has a major role in the development of acne lesions. IGF-1 stimulates the proliferation of keratinocytes via an activation of the IGF-1 receptor (IGF-1R). Zinc has been proven to work efficiently against inflammatory acne and to modulate the IGF-1 system. Our objectives were to study the modulation of IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression by P. acnes extracts and to determine their modulation by zinc gluconate. In vivo, we analyzed biopsies of acne lesions and healthy skin, and in vitro we used skin explants incubated with two P. acnes extracts--membrane fraction (MF) and cytosolic proteins--with or without zinc. IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression was evaluated using immunohistochemistry, and the IGF-1 production in supernatants was measured by ELISA. Then, IGF-1 and IGF-1R mRNA levels were analyzed using quantitative PCR on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). IGF-1 and IGF-1R were overexpressed in acne lesions. MF increased IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression in the epidermis of explants and was associated with an overexpression of both Ki-67 and filaggrin. Zinc had the effect of downregulating IGF-1 and IGF-1R levels. These observations were confirmed at the mRNA level for IGF-1R in NHEKs. These results demonstrate that P. acnes can induce the formation of comedones by stimulating the IGF/IGF-1R system. Moreover, zinc downregulates this pathway.

The skin commensal bacillus Propionibacterium acnes is known to play a major role in the development of acne vulgaris and it is established that this bacteria is involved both in the induction and maintenance of the inflammatory phase of acne. The corticotropin releasing hormone (CRH), a neuropeptide originally isolated from the hypothalamus, is also produced by the skin. CRH has been reported to play a role in the inflammation, the production of sebum and finally the differentiation of keratinocytes. At the therapeutic level, zinc is known to act specifically on inflammatory lesions with still partially known mechanisms and thus could play an important role in the development of inflammatory acne lesions. Our objective was to study the modulation of CRH expression by keratinocytes induced by P. acnes extracts. CRH expression was examined using immunohistochemistry technique on deepfrozen sections of normal human skin explants incubated with two different extracts of P. acnes and with or without zinc salts. We observed that the membrane fraction (FM) of P. acnes increased the CRH expression in the epidermis. This result indicates that P. acnes, by stimulating the production of CRH, can both modulate the differentiation of keratinocytes and increase the local inflammation, arguing that this bacterium plays a role not only in the development of inflammatory acne lesions but also in the formation of the microcomedo in the early stages of acne.

Acne vulgaris is a skin disease affecting pilosebaceous glands in which Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) induced inflammation plays a central role. In order to develop new therapies against the inflammatory events, we evaluated the modulating effect of a new undecyl-rhamnoside, APRC11, on different markers of the inflammation. For this purpose, normal human keratinocytes taken from five healthy donors were pre-incubated for 24 h with APRC11 or Zinc Gluconate (Zn) which was used as reference molecule for its anti-inflammatory properties. Then, keratinocytes were stimulated with P. acnes Membrane Fraction for 6 h, in the presence of either APRC11 or Zn. Different markers were evaluated at mRNA level using a Luminex-based Quantigene array system and at protein level using an ELISA test and a Luminex array system. Results showed that P. acnes significantly increased the expression of IL-1α, IL-1RA, IL-8 and MMP-9. A 24-h treatment with APRC11 prior to the P. acnes stimulation down-regulated the P. acnes-induced cytokines over expression (IL-1α, IL-8 and MMP-9) and up-regulated IL-1RA level in a similar manner than Zn. These regulations were noted at both protein and mRNA levels. In conclusion, the new undecyl-rhamnoside APRC11 is able to down-regulate the expression of molecules implicated in cutaneous inflammation and whose expression is induced by P. acnes, confirming its potential interest in inflammatory acne.

Background The concept of hair transparency has been claimed widely in the Japan (and now it is spreading to Asian) hair color market. Despite the general use of this concept, to date, there is no clear and objective description to accurately explain what it is. In this work, we have decoded and gave clarity to the concept of hair transparency via a technical model (validated for both Japan and China markets) composed of measurable parameters of hair property using a single device. Methodology and Results A comprehensive study composed of various tests was used, starting with a qualitative identification of key parameters via in‐depth workshop discussions with over 40 Japanese stylists and a panel of 12 consumers. These identified parameters (luminosity, color visibility, and Shine) were then translated into technically measurable parameters of the hair fiber (Diffused light intensity, ratio of RGB channel intensities of Diffused light, and luster) via a single instrument—Hair SAMBA (a dual‐polarized imaging system). Afterward, 10 carefully selected anchor shades were used as visual stimuli in an online pairwise comparison (PC) study with 100 Japanese stylists to generate quantitative transparency perception data of the swatches. Technical parameters of these swatches were measured by SAMBA and consolidated with the PC output, for the creation and validation of the mathematical model. After, with another PC study (N = 100) in China, with seven shades from Japan study and 6 additional Chinese market shades, the applicability of the model in China market was validated. Conclusion We have clarified and quantified the concept of hair transparency through a consumer centric approach and with objective data. Our findings will enable the development of optimum transparent shades which better suits consumer needs. Lastly, we would like to highlight the beauty of digitalization in the study: The digital evaluation pathways chosen allowed us to collect quantitative consumer data from two countries for the creation of a robust model under the impact of COVID‐19 and would definitely be the way to go for our future consumer evaluation studies.