A semiempirical determination of the spectral dependence of the energy dissipation due to surface wave breaking is presented and then used to propose a model for the spectral dependence of the breaking strength parameter b, defined in the O. M. Phillips's statistical formulation of wave breaking dynamics. The determination of the spectral dissipation is based on closing the radiative transport equation for fetch-limited waves, measured in the Gulf of Tehuantepec Experiment, by using the measured evolution of the directional spectra with fetch, computations of the four-wave resonant interactions, and three models of the wind input source function. The spectral dependence of the breaking strength is determined from the Kleiss and Melville measurements of the breaking statistics and the semiempirical spectral energy dissipation, resulting in ö = b(k, Cplu^), where k is the wavenumber and the parametric dependence is on the wave age, Cplu¡^. Guided by these semiempirical results, a model for b{k, Cplu^,) is proposed that uses laboratory data from a variety of sources, which can be represented by i = a{S -So)", where 5 is a measure of the wave slope at breaking, a is a constant, 5o is a threshold slope for breaking, and 2.5 < n <3 is a power law consistent with inertial wave dissipation scaling and laboratory measurements. The relationship between b{S) in the laboratory and b{k) in the field is based on the relationship between the saturation and mean square slope of the wave field. The results are discussed in the context of wind wave modeling and improved measurements of breaking in the field.
The authors present airborne observations of fetch-limited waves during strong offshore winds in the Gulf of Tehuantepec. The measurements, collected over a wide range of fetches, include one-and two-dimensional surface wavenumber spectra and turbulent fluxes in winds up to 25 m s 21 . The evolution of the wave spectra is in good agreement with the fetch relationships from previous observations. The tails of the observed onedimensional k 1 spectra, in the dominant wave direction, exhibit a k À3 1 power law over a wide range of wavenumbers. The authors present the first quantification of the transition between the equilibrium and saturation ranges for the omnidirectional spectrum in the wavenumber domain. The energy density within the equilibrium range shows a dependence on the wave age. At wavenumbers higher than the spectral peak, the width of the spectrum in the direction orthogonal to the dominant waves is nearly independent of the wave age. However, in the azimuthal direction, the spreading of the spectrum decreases with increasing effective wave age. The bimodal directional distribution, characterized by the lobe amplitude and separation, shows a consistent scaling with both parameters collapsing when scaled by the square root of the wave age. The onedimensional fetch-limited k 1 spectrum is well parameterized with dependence on the effective fetch and friction velocity. At higher wavenumbers within the saturation range, although the one-dimensional saturation in the dominant wave direction is independent of the wind forcing, the saturation in the crosswind direction is weakly dependent on the effective wave age and on average 30% larger than that in the downwind direction. The results are discussed in the context of previous observations and current numerical wind-wave prediction models.
Wave–current interaction can result in significant inhomogeneities of the ocean surface wave field, including modulation of the spectrum, wave breaking rates, and wave statistics. This study presents novel airborne observations from two experiments: 1) the High-Resolution Air–Sea Interaction (HiRes) experiment, with measurements across an upwelling jet off the coast of Northern California, and 2) an experiment in the Gulf of Mexico with measurements of waves interacting with the Loop Current and associated eddies. The significant wave height and slope varies by up to 30% because of these interactions at both sites, whereas whitecap coverage varies by more than an order of magnitude. Whitecap coverage is well correlated with spectral moments, negatively correlated with the directional spreading, and positively correlated with the saturation. Surface wave statistics measured in the Gulf of Mexico, including wave crest heights and lengths of crests per unit surface area, show good agreement with second-order nonlinear approximations, except over a focal area. Similarly, distributions of wave heights are generally bounded by the generalized Boccotti distribution, except at focal regions where the wave height distribution reaches the Rayleigh distribution with a maximum wave height of 2.55 times the significant wave height, which is much larger than the standard classification for extreme waves. However, theoretical distributions of spatial statistics that account for second-order nonlinearities approximately bound the observed statistics of extreme wave elevations. The results are discussed in the context of improved models of breaking and related air–sea fluxes.
This study describes a model of Phillips' Λ(c) distribution, which is the expected length of breaking fronts (per unit surface area) moving with velocity c to c+dc, providing a framework for coupled atmosphere‐wave‐ocean models to explicitly account for wave breaking related air‐sea fluxes. The model of Λ depends on the spectral saturation, based on Gaussian statistics of the lengths of crest exceeding wave slope criteria, and long wave‐short wave modulation. A wave breaking dissipation function based on Λ was implemented in the model WaveWatchIII. The wave solutions are consistent with the observations, including several metrics of the spectrum and Λ(c) distributions. The whitecap coverage derived from Λ reproduces recent parameterizations saturating at high winds. The wave breaking variability due to wave‐current interaction is significant at submesoscales (order 1 km or smaller). The wave breaking model can be further developed to model gas transfer coefficients and aerosol production.
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