An alternative Stokes theory for steady waves in water of constant depth is presented where the expansion parameter is the wave steepness itself. The first step in application requires the solution of one nonlinear equation, rather than two or three simultaneously as has been previously necessary, In addition to the usually specified design parameters of wave height, period and ~ water depth, it is also necessary to specify the current or mass flux to apply any steady wave theory. The reason being that the waves almost always travel on some finite current and the apparent wave period is actually a Dopplershifted period. Most previous theories have ignored this, and their application has been indefinite, if not wrong, at first order. A numerical method for testing theoretical results is proposed, which shows that two existing theories are wrong at fifth order, while the present theory and that of Chappelear are correct. Comparisons with experiments and accurate numerical results show that the present theory is accurate for wavelengths shorter than ten times the water depth.
A method for the numerical solution of steadily progressing periodic waves on irrotational flow over a horizontal bed is presented. No analytical approximations are made. A finite Fourier series, similar to Dean's stream function series, is used to give a set of nonlinear equations which can be solved using Newton's method. Application to laboratory and field situations is emphasized throughout. When compared with known results for wave speed, results from the method agree closely. Results for fluid velocities are compared with experiment and agreement found to be good, unlike results from analytical theories for high waves.The problem of shoaling waves can conveniently be studied using the present method because of its validity for all wavelengths except the solitary wave limit, using the conventional first-order approximation that on a sloping bottom the waves at any depth act as if the bed were horizontal. Wave period, energy flux and mass flux are conserved. Comparisons with experimental results show good agreement.
Several solutions for the solitary wave have been attempted since the work of Boussinesq in 1871. Of the approximate solutions, most have obtained series expansions in terms of wave amplitude, these being taken as far as the third order by Grimshaw (1971). Exact integral equations for the surface profile have been obtained by Milne-Thomson (1964,1968) and Byatt-Smith (1970), and these have been solved numerically. In the present work an exact operator equation is developed for the surface profile of steady water waves. For the case of a solitary wave, a form of solution is assumed and coefficients are obtained numerically by computer to give a ninth-order solution. This gives results which agree closely with exact numerical results for the surface profile, where these are available. The ninth-order solution, together with convergence improvement techniques, is used to obtain an amplitude of 0.85for the solitary wave of greatest height and to obtain refined approximations to physical quantities associated with the solitary wave, including the surface profile, speed of the wave and the drift of fluid particles.
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