β-Cyclodextrin (β-CD) is an oligosaccharide composed of seven units of D-(+)-glucopyranose joined by α-1,4 bonds, which is obtained from starch. Its singular trunk conical shape organization, with a well-defined cavity, provides an adequate environment for several types of molecules to be included. Complexation changes the properties of the guest molecules and can increase their stability and bioavailability, protecting against degradation, and reducing their volatility. Thanks to its versatility, biocompatibility, and biodegradability, β-CD is widespread in many research and industrial applications. In this review, we summarize the role of β-CD and its derivatives in the textile industry. First, we present some general physicochemical characteristics, followed by its application in the areas of dyeing, finishing, and wastewater treatment. The review covers the role of β-CD as an auxiliary agent in dyeing, and as a matrix for dye adsorption until chemical modifications are applied as a finishing agent. Finally, new perspectives about its use in textiles, such as in smart materials for microbial control, are presented.

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Biopolymeric chitosan is considered a promising encapsulating agent for textile applications due to its biocompatibility, lack of toxicity, antibacterial activity, high availability, and low cost. After cellulose, it is nature's most important organic compound. Also, chitosan has unique chemical properties due to its cationic charge in solution. Microencapsulation technologies play an important role in protecting the trapped material and in the durability of the effect, controlling the release rate. The application of chitosan microcapsules in textiles follows the current interest of industries in functionalization technologies that give different properties to products, such as aroma finish, insect repellency, antimicrobial activity, and thermal comfort. In this sense, methods of coacervation, ionic gelation, and LBL are presented for the production of chitosan-based microcapsules and methods of textile finishing that incorporate them are presented, bath exhaustion, filling, dry drying cure, spraying, immersion, and grafting chemical. Finally, current trends in the textile market are identified and guidance on future developments.

Biofunctional textiles with integrated drug-delivery systems can help in the fight against vector-borne diseases. The use of repellent agents derived from plants and oils is an alternative to DEET (N,N-diethyl-m-methylbenzamide), which has disadvantages that include toxic reactions and skin damage. However, some researchers report that oils can be ineffective due to reasons related to uncontrolled release. In this work, the mechanism of control of citronella oil (OC) complexed with β-cyclodextrin (βCD) on cotton (COT) and polyester (PES) textiles was investigated. The results obtained reveal that finishing cotton and polyester with β-cyclodextrin complexes allows for control of the release mechanism of the drug from the fabric. To assess the complexes formed, optical microscopy, SEM, and FTIR were carried out; the yield of complex formation was obtained by spectroscopy in the ultraviolet region; and controlled release was performed in vitro. Oil complexation with βCD had a yield of 63.79%, and it was observed that the release, which was in seconds, moved to hours when applied to fabrics. The results show that complexes seem to be a promising basis when it comes to immobilizing oils and controlling their release when modified with chemical crosslinking agents.

The use of biopolymers such as cyclodextrin in textiles for the development of biofunctional fabrics is an alternative for the development of eco-friendly textiles. Cyclodextrins can create covalent interactions with the chemical groups available in wool, allowing the sorption of active molecules that will be released, such as the citronella oil. Therefore, this work investigates the formation of cyclodextrin complex oil applied in wool and its release mechanism. The complexes obtained and the grafted fabric were characterized by TGA, DLS, FTIR-ATR and SEM. The release of citronella oil was also analyzed and mathematical adjustments were performed using the equation of Korsmeyer-Peppas to verify the release mechanism. The results have indicated the formation of the complex and its fixation by covalent bonding, according to the FTIR-ATR specter and the SEM, and these have shown an anomalous release profile. For this reason, the application of the complexes in wool fabrics has shown to be an option in the production of eco-friendly biofunctional materials for controlled release, allowing the oil properties to be used in textile matrices.

The use of Metal-Organic Frameworks (MOF) such as HKUST-1 in textiles is an alternative with regard to the development of technologies that are increasingly seeking for functionalities, mainly in the fields of health and hygiene, named biofunctional fabrics. However, the application of the MOF under the surface of the wool fiber can lead to a low durability finish due to its low fixation. Thus, this project aims to perform the direct synthesis of HKUST in the wool fiber, so that a product with good washing durability can be obtained. The purpose of this study was to incorporate metal-organic frameworks, composed of copper and trimesic acid, into woolen fabrics, to improve the antibacterial properties. The synthesis was performed directly in the wool fabric, at time intervals of 24 and 48 h. The resulting fabrics were characterized by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy (EDS), X-Ray Diffractometry (XRD), Fourier Transform Spectroscopy Infrared-Attenuated Total Reflectance (FTIR-ATR), and colorimetric analysis (CIElab), and the Antimicrobial Activity Test (American Association of Textile Chemist and Colourists - AATCC Test Method 61-2007-2A) was performed. The results suggested that the application produced textiles with antibacterial properties, showing activity against Escherichia coli.

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Essential oils are complex, volatile liquid mixtures that can be extracted from various parts of plants. Their main characteristics are strong fragrance and biological properties. Studying the characteristics of oils along with the possibility of an interaction with textiles creates new possible uses of this material. However, when oil is applied to a textile substrate, it is necessary to develop an oil release model, while most of the works only explore the application procedure and the fixed oil durability against washes. Thus, this work reports the mechanism and kinetics of controlled release of microencapsulated citronella oil from wool. The microencapsulation was done by complex coacervation with gelatin and gum Arabic biopolymers as shell materials. Optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy were used to confirm the encapsulation. The microcapsules were then supported by foulard in wool, fixed on fabrics and evaluated by attenuated total reflection Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. The controlled release of citronella from the microcapsules deposited on the fabric was studied in vitro. The microcapsules formed had a multi-core structure, and when applied to wool they showed diffusion by a Fickian mechanism in the first release stage and on the second stage changed to non-Fickian kinetics. The controlled release indicates that the textile structure influences the release model due to an interaction between fabric and water.