Up to date, no worldwide standard in vitro method has been established for the determination of the sun protection factor (SPF), since there are many problems in terms of its repeatability and reliability. Here, we have studied the problems on the in vitro SPF measurements brought about by the phenomenon called viscous fingering. A spatially periodic stripe pattern is usually formed spontaneously when a viscous fluid is applied onto a solid substrate. For the in vitro SPF measurements, the recommended amount of sunscreen is applied onto a substrate, and the intensity of the transmitted UV light through the sunscreen layer is evaluated. Our theoretical analysis indicated that the nonuniformity of the thickness of the sunscreen layer varied the net UV absorbance. Pseudo-sunscreen composites having no phase separation structures were prepared and applied on a quartz plate for the measurements of the UV absorbance. Two types of applicators, a block applicator and a 4-sided applicator were used. The flat surface was always obtained when the 4-sided applicator was used, while the spatially periodic stripe pattern was always generated spontaneously when the block applicator was used. The net UV absorbance of the layer on which the stripe pattern was formed was found to be lower than that of the flat layer having the same average thickness. Theoretical simulations quantitatively reproduced the variation of the net UV absorbance led by the change of the geometry of the layer. The results of this study propose the definite necessity of strict regulations on the coating method of sunscreens for the establishment of the in vitro SPF test method.
The solution type composite having the highest concentrations of DHHB and BMDM prepared in this study exhibited critical wavelength at 368 nm that was just below the border for sunscreens being qualified as 'Broad Spectrum' protection under the new rule launched by US FDA.
When a viscous liquid is applied to a solid substrate, a patterned liquid layer is usually formed by the phenomenon called viscous fingering, since the moving liquid surface is in far-from-equilibrium conditions to let the morphological fluctuation to grow. Pseudosunscreen solutions were prepared and applied on a flat quartz plate. A spatially periodic stripe pattern was formed on the pseudosunscreen layer when a block applicator was used, whereas a flat surface layer was formed when a four-sided applicator was used. UV absorbance of the patterned layer was lower than that of the flat layer having the same average thickness. In addition, a larger decrease in the UV absorbance by the pattern formation was observed at wavelengths at which the UV absorbance of the flat layer was large, which was consistent with theoretical simulations. In 2011, US FDA introduced a new rule using the term "Broad Spectrum" for labeling the sunscreens. The different decrease in the UV absorbance at each wavelength was found to change the critical wavelength, which is a criterion for sunscreens to be labeled as "Broad Spectrum" protection. The result of this study makes the problem on the evaluation of the critical wavelength come to the surface.
for the Broad-spectrum approval by US FDA s Final Sunscreen Rule 10 , roughened cosmetic standard poly methyl methacrylate PMMA UV evaluation plates are used 11 13. In our previous studies, it was shown that spontaneous pattern formation by viscous fingering 14 18 on the sunscreen layer during the process of its application onto a flat Abstract: Cosmetic standard poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA) UV evaluation plates, i.e., roughened PMMA plates, are used in the EU and the US for the in vitro evaluation of UV protection abilities of sunscreen, such as in vitro UVA-PF and critical wavelength for the Broad-spectrum approval. In our previous studies, inhomogeneity in the thickness of a pseudo-sunscreen layer applied on a flat quartz plate was observed to alter UV transmission. Thus, the surface roughness of the standard plates should have a significant influence on the in vitro evaluation. In the present study, we have analyzed the surface structures of three cosmetic standard PMMA UV evaluation plates: Helioplates HD6 (Sa = 6 µm) and ISO plates (Ra = 2 and 5 µm). A decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and 2-propanol-mixed solvent solution of acrylsilicone resin was prepared, and the solution was added dropwise onto the plates. After the evaporation of the solvents, the plates were cut and the cross section was analyzed using SEM-EDS. The distribution of silicon atoms at the cross-section suggested that the maximum depth of penetrating of acrylsilicone resin was larger than Ra for all the standard plates, and the surface structure was significantly different for each standard plate. In addition, cracks into which the acrylsilicone resin deeply penetrated were observed on the surface of some plates. Clear-solution-type pseudo-sunscreen samples in which UV absorbers and acrylsilicone resin were dissolved were deposited on the standard roughened PMMA plates. It was observed that the addition of acrylsilicone resin drastically changed the net UV transmission. The degree to which the hollows of the roughened surface were filled with the pseudo-sunscreen samples determined the variation of UV transmittance.
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