The internal stratum corneum lipid composition was investigated in relation to depth in vivo in healthy human volunteers by extraction following one, three or five strippings. Automated multiple development high-performance thin-layer chromatography (AMD-HPTLC) and gas chromatography (GC) followed by normalized principal component analysis showed a decrease in the amount of lipids extracted after one, three and five strippings. Between levels 0, 1, 3 and 5 the stratum corneum lipid composition showed an increase in phospholipids and cholesterol-3-sulphate at level 3, a decrease in ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acids after level 1, and a slight decrease in sterol esters at level 3. Lipids extracted after three strippings displayed a characteristic composition with an increase in the proportion of phospholipids and cholesterol-3-sulphate. Free fatty acid analysis in relation to depth revealed a decrease in the amounts of C14:0, C16:0, C16:1, C18:0 and C18:1 between levels 1 and 5 and an increase in the C24:0. A decrease in the unsaturated/saturated chain ratio with depth was also observed, reflecting a greater decrease in unsaturated than saturated free fatty acids. A decrease in the ratios of free fatty acids to cholesterol and free fatty acids to ceramides after three and five strippings, respectively, and previously reported results, confirm the importance of this level of stratum corneum lipids in skin barrier properties.
Sun exposure is the major environmental influence for epidermal cells; the harmful effect of UV radiation on skin is related to the generation of reactive oxygen species that alter cellular components including proteins. It is now well established that the proteasome is responsible for the degradation of most of oxidized proteins and that impairment of proteasome function is a hallmark of cellular aging. In a previous study, we investigated the effects of UV irradiation on proteasomes in human keratinocyte cultures and showed that all three peptidase activities were decreased 24 h after irradiation of the cells. Increased levels of oxidatively modified proteins were observed in irradiated cells and were found to act as endogenous inhibitors of the proteasome. We report here on the stimulating and protective effects of an algae extract, prepared from Phaeodactylum tricornutum, on proteasome peptidase activities of human keratinocytes exposed to UVA and UVB irradiation. In addition, preserving proteasome function resulted in lowering the extent of the irradiation-induced protein oxidative damage, opening up new strategies for protection of epidermal cells against the detrimental effects of UV irradiation.
The thermotropic phase behavior of lipids extracted either in vivo from inner forearm (SCLE) or plantar callus (PC) was investigated by differential scanning calorimetry and small angle X-ray diffraction. PC composition was chromatographically modified (MPC) by eliminating the more polar lipids in order to evaluate their role. Analysis of composition confirms the potential use of PC as a source of stratum corneum lipids. MPC and SCLE exhibit similar differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) profiles with a main transition around 50 degrees C attributed to the solid-to-liquid phase transition of the ceramides. The absence of a transition around 50 degrees C for PC suggests the possible perturbation of ceramide packing by the significantly high proportion of phospholipids. X-ray data suggest a high miscibility of sebum components in stratum corneum lipids with possible modification of chain packing. The MPC patterns show a lipid phase separation which underscores the role of polar lipids in cholesterol/free fatty acids/sterol esters/ceramides structural cohesion.
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